Can the ECU overheat?
#1
Can the ECU overheat?
I'll try to make this semi-short. I just want some feedback from someone who knows these cars well.
My Sportec stage 3 b5 S4 has run great for 60K miles, over 3.5 years since I had the work done. Then, suddenly it started idling and running like crap, so I took it to the dealer (? not a great idea, but I'm in Oklahoma City, where there aren't many knowledgeable shops). The MAF sensor was bad, and they replaced it, which got it running well ... for about 20 minutes, after which it idled like crap, ran like crap, and ultimately setttled into limp mode.
If they let the car cool off completely, it would then run (after clearing the codes) for 20 min, consistently.
This sounded weird, and of course, they blamed my computer, so I took it for a ride. Like they said, it ran great for 20 min, then became highly erratic and went into limp mode. Innumerable codes were present.
Their theory: the computer/ECU is overheating.
So, I tested the theory by putting the ECU in the freezer, then driving after it was sufficiently cold. I kid you not, the car ran for 45 minutes without a hiccup. I have tried several variations, and what seems obvious is this: if the ECU is not hot, all is well.
My question: will a stock computer be able to run a car with the stage 3 set-up? I'm trying to figure out a way to temporarily swap (so I can drive my car), while I have my computer repaired (in Colorado).
Any ideas?
My Sportec stage 3 b5 S4 has run great for 60K miles, over 3.5 years since I had the work done. Then, suddenly it started idling and running like crap, so I took it to the dealer (? not a great idea, but I'm in Oklahoma City, where there aren't many knowledgeable shops). The MAF sensor was bad, and they replaced it, which got it running well ... for about 20 minutes, after which it idled like crap, ran like crap, and ultimately setttled into limp mode.
If they let the car cool off completely, it would then run (after clearing the codes) for 20 min, consistently.
This sounded weird, and of course, they blamed my computer, so I took it for a ride. Like they said, it ran great for 20 min, then became highly erratic and went into limp mode. Innumerable codes were present.
Their theory: the computer/ECU is overheating.
So, I tested the theory by putting the ECU in the freezer, then driving after it was sufficiently cold. I kid you not, the car ran for 45 minutes without a hiccup. I have tried several variations, and what seems obvious is this: if the ECU is not hot, all is well.
My question: will a stock computer be able to run a car with the stage 3 set-up? I'm trying to figure out a way to temporarily swap (so I can drive my car), while I have my computer repaired (in Colorado).
Any ideas?
#3
Is your chip socketed in place? If could be a bad solder joint or one that has come loose,
or your ECU is taking a dump.
You can lemmi tweak a stock ecu to get the car running.
You can lemmi tweak a stock ecu to get the car running.
#4
Re: Is your chip socketed in place? If could be a bad solder joint or one that has come loose,
I don't know exactly how the chip is attached. It can be limped when hot, but let's just say that my ECU is in the freezer now so I can actually get to work tomorrow. I'll probably start with the guys at ASW (where I had the work done) to see if they can help me out with a computer swap for now.
#7
Yes and no. IMO, it's the chip that may overheat. My GIAC X chip was defective. When it got really
hot, the car wouldn't start. I know this has been an issue with some other GIAC X chips. Not sure if Sportec has a similar problem.
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