FVUK . . . doing timing belt job, pass side camshaft jumped 45-50 degrees
#1
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
FVUK . . . doing timing belt job, pass side camshaft jumped 45-50 degrees
when we removed the timing belt. Metallic pop when the cam jumped.
Thoughts? Help?
Currently, the plan is to complete the job, then crank over the engine slowly . . . however, not sure on whether or not we should try to pull the cam back into horizontal position (go backwards) or rotate the engine as normal and pull the crank and other cam into position.
Not my car so I'm extra pissed. Thanks.
Dave
Thoughts? Help?
Currently, the plan is to complete the job, then crank over the engine slowly . . . however, not sure on whether or not we should try to pull the cam back into horizontal position (go backwards) or rotate the engine as normal and pull the crank and other cam into position.
Not my car so I'm extra pissed. Thanks.
Dave
#2
You sure you heard metal on metal. It's pretty dang normal for a cam to slip a bit and justs need
to be rotated back to the position from whence it came. I think there was even a post about it in the last 10 days.
#3
That should not be a big deal. The valves just lightly tapped the piston.......
when you took tension off the pully (because of the valve springs). There is a tool to prevent that, but the ghetto way works, too. I usually just rotate it back (opposite of the way it spun) into alignment when I am ready to put the new belt back on. Becareful and don't force anything.
Also, next time, if you don't have a tool, when you take the belt off make sure you have a wrench on the pully so you can SLOWLY let the tension off cam.....
Also, next time, if you don't have a tool, when you take the belt off make sure you have a wrench on the pully so you can SLOWLY let the tension off cam.....
#4
No camlock bar?
I had one cam jump on me when I pulled the sprocket off because it popped off so hard it knocked the cam lock bar off and then rotated. If you use the lock bar, then there is only one way the cams will fit when you rotate it back into position, so you are safe. If you don't have the bar you should beg, borrow or buy one before you reassemble, just to be safe. Plus, you need the crank lock pin in also.
#7
I would not turn the crank..
I was crazy and did not use the crank pin or cam bar. Yes, the cams rotated slightly but I turned them back to the proper position while installing the new belt. I doubt I'll try that job again without the tools..
How do you plan on timing the belt?
How do you plan on timing the belt?
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#8
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone.
No cam lock bar. Everything turned out to be ok. I've done two TB jobs prior to this one without the cam lock bar and i've been fine.
Just turned back the cam slowly and aligned the marks and went on with it. Everything turned out to be ok . . . good thing because the guy I was helping is a Cornell prof (not in his class, but still).
Dave
Just turned back the cam slowly and aligned the marks and went on with it. Everything turned out to be ok . . . good thing because the guy I was helping is a Cornell prof (not in his class, but still).
Dave
#9
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
I place two marks on each cam sprocket and on the crank sprocket and on the belt
Then I move the marks on the old belt over to the new belt (requires like 30 minutes of repetitive counting of teeth). So far it has worked for me and several other people I know. On my old 2.8L, the dealer used the cam lock bar for a cam seal replacement and actually left it off by one tooth on the passenger side sprocket so it isn't quite fool proof unless you know what you're doing.
Dave
Dave