JoshK-Allroad

Well, I took my car over to JoshD's house tonight so we could dink around with it and get a better idea of what we were in for with the downpipe install. After pulling, prying and mostly swearing my car is now pulled apart and sitting up on stands in Josh's garage.

Here is what we've accomplished so far: We removed the various engine trim pieces and the "Y" air duct as Jim suggested. We've then removed the 2 bolts holding the metal turbo shields on and the oxygen sensor from the passenger side pipe. After much difficulty we *finally* got one of the CV heat covers off. The top (3rd) bolt on these is almost impossible to get. We've so far been able to remove one of the major downpipe bolts from underneath the car.

We're starting back tomorrow with (hopefully) renewed enthusiasm, but this is turning out to be quite time consuming due to the tiny working spaces around all the bolts.

Are they're any other tips that anybody can offer? Jim and Dave, both of your pieces of advice have been very helpful and we see everything we need to remove and put back on, it's just a matter of doing it now. Pointers on how to get all of these impossible to reach bolts off would be greatly appricated. In particular, those upper downpipe bolts and the passenger side VC heat shield. Is there something we are missing here (a magic tool, possibly? :-) or is each one of these bolts really a 30 minute job?

thanks again for any help,
-josh

P.S. Leslie, as you probably guessed, Josh and I are thinking we may not need the lift. First off, my car is completely undrivable right now. :-) Second, it turned out once we started pulling stuff away that we might as well go for it, and nothing in particular required us getting the car any higher up.

Jim De Arras

As to the rest, a good selection of metric wrenches is helpful, as well as a 3/8th and 1/4 inch drive ratchet and metric sockets. And extensions for both.

I found self-ratcheting box end wrenchs helpful, in stubby length.<p>Jim De Arras

<a href="http://www.imola.org">2000 00 Imola/Onyx/Alcantera S4</a>
MTM Stage III (350 HP!)
MTM Full Suspension
MTM/Pagid Brake pads
UUC Short Shifter (original 20%)
Michelin Pilot Sports.
SmartTire Tire Monitor

rao

work wonders. Just be patient, sometimes things are just a PITA - good luck.

Jim De Arras

<p>Jim De Arras

<a href="http://www.imola.org">2000 00 Imola/Onyx/Alcantera S4</a>
MTM Stage III (350 HP!)
MTM Full Suspension
MTM/Pagid Brake pads
UUC Short Shifter (original 20%)
Michelin Pilot Sports.
SmartTire Tire Monitor

RobM

He told me that when they installed the downpipes on their S4 test mule they found that removing the transmission mounts gave them considerably more room to get at the bolts (they did one side at a time). Hope I'm remembering this correctly, it was a few weeks ago at the NE aftermarket show. Anyway, take it for what it's worth.<p>- rob
'00 Nogaro, APR stage 2, UUC shifter

Jim De Arras

<p>Jim De Arras

<a href="http://www.imola.org">2000 00 Imola/Onyx/Alcantera S4</a>
MTM Stage III (350 HP!)
MTM Full Suspension
MTM/Pagid Brake pads
UUC Short Shifter (original 20%)
Michelin Pilot Sports.
SmartTire Tire Monitor

RobM

<p>- rob
'00 Nogaro, APR stage 2, UUC shifter