Michael Amatrudo

So it's a 2000 S4 in pretty good shape, like 120k on the odo, but i had a pre purchase inspection done (at a cut-rate shop due to sellar not having enough, I don't think I can get it to Audi before buying)but it's throwing codes P1606 (Mfr Ctrlled computer output ckt) and P1296(Mfr Ctrlled fuel and air metering).He said the 02 sensors might be going or they might just have sent out a code after being disconnected. Also the abs module is not connected but he has it. Could either of these be the cause of the error codes??? How much for a new O2 sensor of needed? It also needs valve gaskets, both sides, quoated at $350 P+L(fair price?) but I think I can get that off the purchase price. I'll have to pay for a couple tires, tail light and all 4 new rotors though. Also appears to have original timing belt and turbos. So timing belt asap and ko4s when the stockers go.(would I save a considerable amount of labor hours by have the tbelt and turbos done at once?) Anybody with any insight into this situation would be a life saver! Let m know if you feel this could be a reliable car or what migh be causeing my codes. He owns a few b5s and this one is in great shape plus it has all the options I want.

Michael Amatrudo

Attempt at an edit

AnimuS'Avant

If you can do the work yourself, it might be worthwhile, but it could get really expensive in a hurry. For instance, O2 sensors (there are 4 of them) run $675 just for the factory parts for the 2-sensor front kit. You can get aftermarket parts, but my experience with them has been bad in terms of longevity. Replacing all the valve cover seals is also a PITA (pain-in-the-a$$) job, and the labor can be expensive due to all the stuff that has to be removed. The good news is that it's cheaper if you do it in conjunction with the timing belt/water pump/timing guide bearing service where the whole front end of the car is removed for access. The brake ABS issues scare me too. I think you're looking at about $7-8,000 in repairs at factory labor prices, maybe more.If you keep after these cars they run forever, but once you start getting behind on the maintenance and let things slip they get expensive in a hurry. I've had 2 2001 S4-Avants since 2003 (and 7 Audi's since 1984). My current Imola Yellow S4-Avant is at about 162,000 miles and it has been very well cared for. Nonetheless, it's dinged me for over $5,000 in the past year, and about $2,500 the year before. I like to think that all the main expensive stuff is now taken care of (steering rack replacement, control arms, rear wheel bearings, timing belt/tensioner/water pump, brake pads/rotors/lubed pins, rear main bearing seal, differential seal, rear shock mounts replaced along with rear shocks & new rear springs), all in the past year and a half. If you have the money to keep up, it's a great ride, but not a car that you can keep on the cheap.

Here's my checklist for buying
* timing belt service done (at least every 60k-80k miles), if it breaks you bend all the valves and have to pull the heads which means pulling the turbos, etc.
* coolant should be fresh & pink, not brownish or orangish. Check for coolant leaks (pink crustys) in the V of the engine from above with the engine cover off looking past the throttle body. If you see pink there the afterrun pump or coolant lines are leaking
* diverter valves should not be vibrating or making flapping noises at idle (engine warm). These die often
* oil leaks on either side rear of engine, usually timing chain tensioner leaking. Fixed if you do the tensioner when you do the timing belt
* oil quality - should have had synthetic all its life. check underside of oil cap, should be bright & shiny otherwise beware
* pixels out in the secondary display in front of driver. All my Audi's with these displays have had dead pixel or missing display elements that require a replacement display
* rear differential seals, check for leaking (common). I just replaced the seals on my diff last month
* rear wheel bearings don't last, especially if tire size is increased. They get more & more rattley as they fail.
* front control arms generally shot by 100k. have they been replaced? Should not go "clunk" over bumps. Also check play in steering and oil in steering rack should be fresh, not dirty brown.
* O2 sensors, rears are easy to replace but fronts will fight with you, especially if you've never done them before.
* turbos are pretty solid unless it's been chipped when it gets really expensive fast. That's a $4-5k repair, so worth checking carefully. I've never had one go on any of my Audi's, but I keep them in fresh oil and don't shut off the engine before they've spooled down or go into high boost when they are cold. Have previous owners been kind to your turbos?

If all this stuff is checked and/or you have a handle on the costs of doing it, then the car might be a good deal. Otherwise, move on. There are some fools like me still religiously maintaining B5 S4's. Eventually we get tired of them and a good deal appears for someone. But increasingly the owners are kids who turn up the wicks on the turbos, lower the **** out of the suspensions and try to make them understeer less with giant anti-roll bars, stiff suspension & motor mounts, etc. Thereby ruining the car that Audi intended by turning it into something that will not last, and will be no joy to take on long trips.

Just my $.02. Hope this helps!