tmaslar

I have a small coolant leak on the top left banjo fitting on the left turbo.

There is a hex extension between the top of the turbo and the banjo fitting itself. The leak is actually where the hex extension meets the top turbo body. There is also an X cut in the top of the banjo fittings bolt.

I have the exhaust out of the car right now to do a clutch replacment. It seems to me that there is no good way to get onto the fitting to tighten or remove it to replace the sealing washer.

Does anyone have any tips on fixing this leak?

visintainer [vis]

crind the sides off an open end wrench

richmonds4

I had a leak on my pass side turbo bajo bolt and made a special tool .I cut a 12 piont thin wrecg in haf and welded a 3/8 socket to the 12 piont side worked great ..

Swank4

I had a small coolant leak and tightening the bolt solved it...but I think it was from a different bolt than you describe (passenger side too)....

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/41738/turboleak1.jpg">

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/41738/turboleak2.jpg">

VR_Life

then lower engine a few inches and reach in through the wheel well. Use a long-long socket wrench extension and 17mm socket to tension the banjo on the top.
It's best to do this after heat cycle i.e. turbo was hot then cold again.<ul><li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_auto/104-0464982-9889537?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&amp;field-keywords=engine+transverse+bar&amp;Go.x=0&amp;Go.y =0&amp;Go=Go">Transverse Bar</a></li></ul>

tmaslar

VR Life,

That makes sense. Why do I need to remove the bumper cover? Also the tranny and exhaust is out of the car right now. I am almost to the point of dropping the engine a few inches.

VR_Life

If you drop the engine more than an inch or so you are going to have to disconnect the radiator, IC and other hoses

BTW : You should replace sub-frame bolts not re-torque them.

tmaslar

Thanks VR