so driving along at 80 mph, every light on the dash blinks, coolant light, oil light, car stalls,
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so driving along at 80 mph, every light on the dash blinks, coolant light, oil light, car stalls,
fly over to the side of the road, check everything, start car, no check engine light, nothing, turn around start heading home (because the car doesnt do this kind of thing for fun) and car stalls again. This time abs/epc light flashed, then check engine light flashed, car starts again, drives totally normal...
next day, car wont start, no gas... I replace the ecu with a stock one, car runs PERFECT, no problems, starts right up...
Now onto my question, i have a socketed GIAC chip on my ECU that failed, WTF part of the ecu failed? can i assume that the socketed GIAC chip on the ecu that failed is also fubar? or can i assume that its still working and put it on my stock ecu that has been sitting in the garage for a year...
sorry for the long explanation of what happened.. but it may be useful to somebody searching the archives who has this minor and scary problem lol
next day, car wont start, no gas... I replace the ecu with a stock one, car runs PERFECT, no problems, starts right up...
Now onto my question, i have a socketed GIAC chip on my ECU that failed, WTF part of the ecu failed? can i assume that the socketed GIAC chip on the ecu that failed is also fubar? or can i assume that its still working and put it on my stock ecu that has been sitting in the garage for a year...
sorry for the long explanation of what happened.. but it may be useful to somebody searching the archives who has this minor and scary problem lol
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thats what im thinking but visually inspecting the open ecu the traces and solder looks fine
BUT theres so much crap to look at that it would be really easy to miss something
#6
it could be an encryptor or a cracked solder
call whoever is the your nearest GIAC dealer that is soldier-approved and get it worked out, GIAC has been really cool about it in every instance i have worked with them on.
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