Tires Stuck On - WTH
#1
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Tires Stuck On - WTH
Hey everyone,
I was thinking about inviting another blizzard to Minnesota, aka swapping out my winter tires for my summer tires.
I followed the manual, put the car in jack mode, used the alignment pin and when I get all 5 lugs off, the wheel will not budge. I tried WD40 on the hub, as that joint looks real tight, but I cannot get them off.
I am hesitant to use tons of force because I don't need the car falling off the jack, bending a wheel etc.
Have other people in salt climates have this issue. What level of force do you use, if any. I am irritated that my next stop may be the dealer for the wheel swap. On a safety note, what if I got a flat and these freaking things wouldn't come off.
Thanks for the help ( and I know I am inviting the "you're a wimp" responses. So if the first person could do that for me and we can all move on )
I was thinking about inviting another blizzard to Minnesota, aka swapping out my winter tires for my summer tires.
I followed the manual, put the car in jack mode, used the alignment pin and when I get all 5 lugs off, the wheel will not budge. I tried WD40 on the hub, as that joint looks real tight, but I cannot get them off.
I am hesitant to use tons of force because I don't need the car falling off the jack, bending a wheel etc.
Have other people in salt climates have this issue. What level of force do you use, if any. I am irritated that my next stop may be the dealer for the wheel swap. On a safety note, what if I got a flat and these freaking things wouldn't come off.
Thanks for the help ( and I know I am inviting the "you're a wimp" responses. So if the first person could do that for me and we can all move on )
#2
AudiWorld Senior Member
You're a cautious wimp - how's that?
This often happens in cold, salty climates. You need to hit the edge of the tire (being careful not to contact the rim) with a BFH. Pretty much the only way to break the "seal" that's developed.
Oh, and take the alignment pin out before attempting the above. It's only made of plastic and is likely to break off at the threads once the full weight of the wheel falls on it. Ask me how I know?
This often happens in cold, salty climates. You need to hit the edge of the tire (being careful not to contact the rim) with a BFH. Pretty much the only way to break the "seal" that's developed.
Oh, and take the alignment pin out before attempting the above. It's only made of plastic and is likely to break off at the threads once the full weight of the wheel falls on it. Ask me how I know?
#3
You're a cautious wimp - how's that?
This often happens in cold, salty climates. You need to hit the edge of the tire (being careful not to contact the rim) with a BFH. Pretty much the only way to break the "seal" that's developed.
Oh, and take the alignment pin out before attempting the above. It's only made of plastic and is likely to break off at the threads once the full weight of the wheel falls on it. Ask me how I know?
This often happens in cold, salty climates. You need to hit the edge of the tire (being careful not to contact the rim) with a BFH. Pretty much the only way to break the "seal" that's developed.
Oh, and take the alignment pin out before attempting the above. It's only made of plastic and is likely to break off at the threads once the full weight of the wheel falls on it. Ask me how I know?
just try to loosen the wheel. be care full to not damage the wheel ! Please, don't accelerate ! ! and safety first. x19
#4
AudiWorld Super User
I've had a number of stuck wheels and a equal number of attempts to remove them. The most important thing is to have jack stands, cinder blocks, wooden blocks, etc. under the car so it doesn't fall. Remove the wheel hanger as advised.
The wheel is being held on by corrosion around at the centric. If you can get the center cap off, spray the area with your favorite penetrating oil.
1. BFH - pound on the tire from the inside or outside. Rotate the wheel as you beat on it. If you detect any movement, rotate the tire 180* and hit it on the other side to get the wheel rocking. I've also used a base ball bat and 2X4 on the inside in the past.
2. Turn your back to the wheel and kick the bottom of the tire with your heel. Again rotate the tire every few kicks.
3. Last resort - I once used a pry bar on the inside of a car with rear drum brakes. You have rear disks and that would be a extreme solution in your case.
I also tried loosening the lugs a half turn, driving a few feet and then hitting the brakes hard. That didn't loosen it for me but the mule kick after driving did the trick. That was at a service station where my wife took her van and they couldn't remove the wheel.
After the wheel is off, clean all corrosion from the centric and hub face. A bit of crud can cause a hard to find vibration at highway speeds due to resonance. "Paint" the mating surfaces with marine grade anti-seize to prevent stuck wheels in the future. Just a light coat will do it - too much will work it's way out and get on the rotor and wheels.
The wheel is being held on by corrosion around at the centric. If you can get the center cap off, spray the area with your favorite penetrating oil.
1. BFH - pound on the tire from the inside or outside. Rotate the wheel as you beat on it. If you detect any movement, rotate the tire 180* and hit it on the other side to get the wheel rocking. I've also used a base ball bat and 2X4 on the inside in the past.
2. Turn your back to the wheel and kick the bottom of the tire with your heel. Again rotate the tire every few kicks.
3. Last resort - I once used a pry bar on the inside of a car with rear drum brakes. You have rear disks and that would be a extreme solution in your case.
I also tried loosening the lugs a half turn, driving a few feet and then hitting the brakes hard. That didn't loosen it for me but the mule kick after driving did the trick. That was at a service station where my wife took her van and they couldn't remove the wheel.
After the wheel is off, clean all corrosion from the centric and hub face. A bit of crud can cause a hard to find vibration at highway speeds due to resonance. "Paint" the mating surfaces with marine grade anti-seize to prevent stuck wheels in the future. Just a light coat will do it - too much will work it's way out and get on the rotor and wheels.
#5
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Northern NJ
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Used to happen with my BMW. I would just use a rubber mallet to hit from inside out on the tire, rotating the tire after a few blows. Eventually it would loosen. Just be careful and don't pound on the rim.
#6
2nd for the rubber mallet technique. I now put a coating of white lithium grease on the hub face before winter, and also pull the wheels once or twice during the winter months just to prevent this from occurring.
#7
AudiWorld Super User
Keeping with the general jist of the topic, here's a metal tire alignment pin. $15
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160798355762?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160798355762?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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#8
AudiWorld Member
I've had the best luck removing seized wheels with the kicking method. Now I also use some anti-seize on the center hub when I change/rotate as that's where it seems to rust/stick.
Last edited by CreoS4; 03-23-2014 at 06:12 PM.
#10
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Atlanta, GA
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Loosen the bolts but don't fully remove. Lower the car back down onto the wheel, but don't remove the jack from under the car. The weight of the car will usually pop the wheel free. Once it does, crank the jack back up and remove the bolts. Voila.
And then pack your family up and move to someplace warmer.
And then pack your family up and move to someplace warmer.