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Oil drain plug access??

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Old 04-22-2015, 05:46 AM
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Default Oil drain plug access??

I've searched but haven't found a definitive answer. Has anyone changed their own oil in a 2014 3.0T and if so did you have to use an extractor or were you able to access the oil drain plug from underneath the vehicle? I have heard there is no access (trapdoor) on a 2014? Thanks for any advice!
Old 04-27-2015, 09:11 AM
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Bump. Is everyone having the dealership change the oil?
Old 04-27-2015, 10:27 AM
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Oly, check this out over on AZ. It's for a B8 S4 like you apparently have. It should get you started. You'll have to verify there aren't any changes (oil capacity etc) for your 2014.

DIY - B8 S4 Oil Change
Old 04-27-2015, 03:11 PM
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Default Many of us around here change our own oil.....

Originally Posted by OlyS4
I've searched but haven't found a definitive answer. Has anyone changed their own oil in a 2014 3.0T and if so did you have to use an extractor or were you able to access the oil drain plug from underneath the vehicle? I have heard there is no access (trapdoor) on a 2014? Thanks for any advice!
and they do either of two ways, suck it out through the oil dip stick tube, or pull the lower engine pan, and drain the oil using the filler plug the old fashion way.

I prefer sucking it out. You can break the lower pan attachment hardware easily if not careful. My cousin has cut a hole in his 2011 Q5 lower engine pan to access the drain plug with ease. He then covered the hole with a square of black plastic and secured with 4 screws.
Old 04-29-2015, 10:37 AM
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The panel attaching hardware is not the same as the a4's and such. No plastic nuts in the fenders. It's not a big deal to R & R for access.
Old 04-30-2015, 07:20 AM
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I had a 2010 3.2L and now a 2013 3.0T and have changed the oil in both via the oil plug. I have no experience with an extractor and use the drain plug out of habits formed over 25 years.

Performing an oil change on the Audi Q5 3.0T engine involves average effort if you drain using gravity. I am thin and flexible enough that I don't need to use a jack or ramps. The majority of the effort goes into removing the pan under the engine compartment. You need some torx-drive sockets for some of the fasteners.

My last oil change took about 20-25 minutes start-to-finish.

Other guys on here report excellent results using an extractor... so I think you can't lose either way you go.
Old 05-01-2015, 03:56 PM
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There's no trap door. The dealer mentioned something like removing 19 screws to remove the road pan and that's why they use the suction bottle.

The suction bottles work well, I've used them in other applications. BUT. Now you've got a three foot long vinyl tube, covered in old engine oil, whipping around when you pull it out. And oil always runs on the outside of the main bottle when you empty it.

So you've got a filthy oil-spraying mess, unless you use paper towels on the dip tube as you remove it. And more paper towels to contain what drips out of it. And more paper towels on the bottle and at least two heavy trash bags to contain the whole thing, so it doesn't leave oil stains while you're waiting for the next oil change.

Personally, when it is time for the next change? The road pan is coming off and a HOLE is being installed below the drain plug. I'll slap a piece of mylar or stainless tape over it, to seal it off until the next change. Maybe I'll have "WARRANTY VOID IF REMOVED" printed on it, in case I have to impress an Audi mechanic.(G)

If it was a Volvo, they'd have intelligently used Dzus fasteners instead of nineteen screws.
Old 05-06-2015, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by OlyS4
I've searched but haven't found a definitive answer. Has anyone changed their own oil in a 2014 3.0T and if so did you have to use an extractor or were you able to access the oil drain plug from underneath the vehicle? I have heard there is no access (trapdoor) on a 2014? Thanks for any advice!
Here:






Checking oil level with dipstick



Old 05-06-2015, 12:01 PM
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I extract my oil with my vehicles and I haven't experienced any sort of messy situation like others have mentioned.

Usually when pulling the hose out after I've extracted all the oil I'll grab a shop towel and wipe off any excess and leave the towel wrapped around it. The towel is thick enough to soak up the oil that drips and as long as you keep the opening facing up it wont leak everywhere. I'll then remove the hose from the extractor wrap it up with the towel still on the end and transfer the old oil into the waste oil drum.

Below is the extractor I use.

Click HERE to order or for more information



Jason

Last edited by ECS Tuning-Audi; 05-06-2015 at 12:05 PM.
Old 05-06-2015, 12:02 PM
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If there is no trapdoor in the 2014 2.-T roadpan, why would there be one in the 3.0T roadpan?

This is not The Audi Way. You will use a proper matching tool to remove the 19 critical retaining screws and drop the road pan, which ensures that you also have the opportunity to have it washed and polished on both sides while it is off, and the chassis that was concealed with it washed and polished as well.

http://newcontent.westmarine.com/con...l/11047123.jpg
WEST MARINE Manual Oil Extractor - 6.9 Quart | West Marine

Don't even dream about using a marine grade oil sucker, such as the type many sailors use, because that is not an authorized Audi Special Service Tool and it could cause spontaneous explosion of the vehicle, which would not be covered under warranty. Despite the scurrilous internet rumors that such devices work perfectly well.


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