TFT

How difficult is it to replace these by myself?
Audi wants approximately $500.00 each for the Axles, I can find them on line for less than $100.00 each
This is for my 2002 A6 4.2
I'm asking here because you guys are so much more responsive than the A6 forum


Thanks for your help

Mister Bally

1. You need a large, 3/4" drive torque wrench.
Best to use a proper service manual as any error will ruin a wheel bearing. They are more work to replace.
2. If the $100.00 ones are used Audi parts, you are good assuming the used part has life left in it. If they are new, they are Chinese junk and will not last. You are wasting money. Some of them will be a different weight than OEM resulting in steering imbalance at high speeds.

the_duke

Check out Raxles. They have a very good reputation and while they will cost more than $100 they will be less than oem and quality will be as good or better.

Raxles, America's premier supplier of OE quality CV Axles and CV joints - Raxles Inc.

TFT

According to Audi parts guy, the ones I would get from Audi are "re-manufactured" axles. I will be refunded a $200 core charge once returning the originals.
That works out to $300 a piece for re-manufactured items.
I have searched quite a bit for these on the internet and like I said the most expensive ones I can find are around $100.00
Of course I can find oem Audi axles and they are all around $480-500 and they do have a $200 core charge.
So are you saying I should only buy Audi oem axles?

MP4.2+6.0

Back up...

What is wrong with current axle(s)? Simply a blown boot, or was it worn so long the joint is now screwed up internally and making clicking noises or some such? Or, is it actually blown/destroyed mechanically?--very rare...

I basically have never replaced an axle on an Audi. Maybe I did once on my 80's Ford Taurus... And then of course I ran risk of getting some prior owner's piece o crap "rebuilt" one or a Katrina special--which probably just means dip in parts clean tank, spray it black and replace boots.

Usually I just rebuild mine, assuming I am confident in my vehicle's history and the condition of the actual joints. I get GKN/Loebro boots which are sold like all over the web, and not expensive. They are likely the OE/OES, or equivalent. Normally an outer goes, but if older, I just do both once I open an axle. You have to master releasing the circlip that holds axle to outer joint, but after that not hard. Among messiest jobs on planet to clean out grease--just use a roll of paper towels. NEVER disassemble one (unless at very advanced level); putting parts back in ANY different order will likely then cause noise and issues.

Knowing A6 from owning it (2000 4.2), you can also get the outer joint for that one, if again that is the one that has gotten screwed up with long term open boot. For C5 A6's, be suspicious of wheel bearings too. Same job basically once you are in there and have pulled axle. Mine ate several. Mine was the later design with the aluminum front suspension parts (like A8's). 4.2's had that set up from get go in MY 2000. I think the V6's went to that by facelift in 2002 too.

Mister Bally

Like MP4.2+6.0 says, if you just have torn boots, buy the good replacements and install them yourself. Best to have a good forged vise to do the work. A very messy job.

Where some go astray is that the boot kits (two for each axle halfshaft cost about $100 from a dealer. Why do that plus the work if I can buy a complete "new" halfshaft with new boots and CV Joints for $100.00? Answer: It's a junk halfshaft for the $100.00

Buy a genuine complete one from Audi (you must have OEM ones to return to get you core charge back) even if remanufactured. They are worth it; you get what you pay for.

If you have a torn boot and ruined a CV Joint; buy a replacement OEM or OES one and replace along with the boot. Sure it's more that $100.00 but it's a job done right.

I'm confident in my '04, with 272,000 miles to take it on another 7700 mile cross Country road trip tomorrow if I had to. I wouldn't be if I put Chinese junk drivetrain or brake parts on it.

Maybe even another run at Bonneville if I was on I-80 near Wendover....

TFT

I just spoke to Marty at Raxles. Their price is better, but shipping to Alaska is cost prohibitive, cheaper to buy from Audi.
He said the same thing about the aftermarket axles, they are junk.
I'm going to have the axles inspected by an independent to determine if I need boots or complete axles.

MP4.2+6.0

Basically, if you are hearing clicking noises when you flip a U turn and give it some gas, joint is likely damaged. If it is just an open boot and still pretty recent, just a boot change. Unfortunately, stereotype of Alaska roads and weather (as in not CA) is road crap may have gotten in there if left unattended too long.

For D3 group BTW, I was always pretty happy the D3 boots seemed long lived and solid--maybe they finally learned... BUT then about 18 months ago on a winter tire rotation I noticed one was starting to ooze grease. Probably at about 105K miles. Not cracked open, but material was starting to break down. Passenger side on my W12--which is also the side pretty unique to that set up that takes more heat from forward oil cooler. I used to see it in the TPMS tire temps any time I drove open road with some summer heat. I don't know if it helped toast that one a bit earlier than drivers side that continues to check out fine.