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Here's the DIY for changing the DSG fluid. I'll be updating this post as I come across relevant information.
Some info on the tranny- it's a DL382, in three flavors- 0CK for FWD, 0CL for quattro, and 0CJ for quattro ultra (what we allroaders have). Mechanically speaking all three variants are almost the same with the differences being gear ratios and the 0CK missing a rear output, the quattro has a center diff, and quattro ultra utlizing the EM coupling. There are two oil circuits within the tranny, one for the mechatronics/wet clutch (hydraulic side) and one for the gears/transfer (mechanical side). The difference between the DL382 and DL501 used in previous Audis is the lack of an external oil filter and the existence of an internal oil pressure accumulator. Service interval is 40k miles for the DSG fluid, Audi is vague as to when exactly the MTF/gear oil should be changed, if at all. They did not make it easy draining the MTF out. If you must change the MTF I will post instructions for that when time allows. There are three filters, all are part of the mechatronics unit so there is no replacing those. The oiling system for the gears utilizes a "bladder" that wraps the gears and sprays the oil onto the surfaces as needed. On the hydraulic side a pump loads the pressure accumulator which then supplies fluid to the solenoid valves and clutch.
4.35L DSG (empty fill, ignore this number unless you replaced the mechatronics)
3.5L DSG (fluid change), pn G055529A2, though I used a VW G 052 529 spec DSG fluid
3.8L MTF/gear oil, pn G052549A2 (not cheap, it's ~$35/L) or alternately a 75W GL-4 gear oil. DSG fluid is not recommended here since there is a hypoid gear for the front transfer.
TOOLS
T25 torx wrench
drain pan
fluid transfer pump
-Warm up the car (take it for a drive), then raise all four corners on a level surface.
-Remove the panel shielding the tranny. Six T-25s and two push clips on the rear, remove those by separating the head from the expansion sleeve.
-locate the fill and drain ports, both are on the plastic sump (pan)
-position the drain pan and remove the fill and drain plugs. Turn on the car and connect the vag-com tool, go into the transmission module, adaptation, oil pressure reservoir emptying, and turn on. Monitor the oil pressure reservoir pressure in live data and see that it drops. About 3L of fluid should come out. After draining, replace the drain plug with a new one. You can reuse the old one but I found a small of amount of seepage a week later.
-The tricky part is filling it without having the fluid shoot back out. I used a rubber plug that fits the port and drilled a hole that fit my fluid pump's tubing and sealed the plug/tube with silicone. You can also modify an old port plug. The tube should extend past the plug some 3 inches, I will get exact measurements next time I change out the fluid.
-Once the overfill slows to a drip replace the fill port plug and start up the engine.
-Step on the brake and shift from P to R, N, D, S, then back to P stopping for a few seconds on each. Monitor the reservoir pressure and it should go back up to around mid-20's bar.
-Turn off the engine and open up the fill port again. Add additional fluid. Start the engine and it idle. Monitor the transmission fluid temperature (DSG fluid is heated by clutch plate friction).
-After a while the fluid temp should rise, once it reaches 30-40C, stop the engine remove the fill port plug.
-There should be some leakage. When the overfill slows replace the port plug with a new plug and reinstall the shielding.
You can probably get away without the vag-com using the measure/refill method (do this when the tranny is cold), although you won't get most of the fluid out. Also of note tools like the VAG 6262 won't work with this tranny as it has a different threading altogether.
Last edited by breadbooze; 01-10-2021 at 04:57 AM.
Reason: update
Why did I read earlier that this DSG transmission couldn't be worked on with out electrically removing the pressure in the system. Is this fluid change the same as what the dealership would perform during a DSG service ?
Why did I read earlier that this DSG transmission couldn't be worked on with out electrically removing the pressure in the system. Is this fluid change the same as what the dealership would perform during a DSG service ?
Thanks
Any flush will not get all of the fluid 100 % new short of taking everything apart. Using VCDS or OBDELEVEN will empty the pressure accumulator and help get more of it out than not doing so.
here is a pic of OBDELEVEN screen showing pressure accumulator empty.
The normal pressure I observe is btwn 23 to 30 bar and it returned to 25 bar after refill.
After pumping new fluid into the ATF side are they any steps that need to be performed using VCDS to pressurize the reservoir? I ask this because the Audi manual calls out a step to be completed using the factory scan tool and provides no details since you follow the steps that are displayed on the screen.
After pumping new fluid into the ATF side are they any steps that need to be performed using VCDS to pressurize the reservoir? I ask this because the Audi manual calls out a step to be completed using the factory scan tool and provides no details since you follow the steps that are displayed on the screen.
I didnt see in obdeleven anywhere to repressurize the pressure accumulator. Only thing I monitored after the first 3 liters were pumped in was running through the gears several times, pumped the 4th liter in and waited for the temp to get up to 40C on the live information in obdeleven. Then I removed the plug and replaced it when it slowed considerably.
I think the pump repressurizes the pressure accumulator as you run it through the gears
Thanks for the video I'll look tonight in VCDS to see if I see anything related to power pack activation to charge accumulator. What oil did you end of using OEM or?
03-20-2018, 01:52 PM
DIY DSG fluid change
