JZK26

My current tires are 275/35-21 on my 2017 S8. Looks like I'll need to get winter wheels and tires. I've heard I should go with 19" wheels. IF that's the case - what size tire should I be looking for? Also - would driving 19" wheels make my speedometer readings less accurate since the wheel is smaller? Lastly - how bad would it be to stay with my 21" wheels and just get winter tires for them?

Thanks all!

MP4.2+6.0

Search is your friend... See answer here from...yesterday for starters. My reply #11. https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...nking-2958367/ Tire size--interaction of aspect ratio and width) determines running diameter, not wheel size.

Easiest way to get to dedicated winters is probably buy a set of factory 20 wheels. The twin 10 wheels from D4 or C7 S7 are pretty easy to find used, relatively cheap among takeoffs, and technically good--forged (unlike S8 stock), lighter and strong. As that thread mentions, you can also do it with factory 19's (with caveat about CCB's if you happen to have them), though those are cast.

JZK26

Thank you sir. So 265/40-20 is what I'll look for. Any tips on what type of wheel to look for? put differently, which one do you use?

MP4.2+6.0

I use the factory twin 7 20--lightest factory 20 x 9 fitment that is plug and play for D4. The twin tens are easier to find and less in demand. Might be a bit stronger too just given the extra spokes. Give I am not in beat up Midwest or Northeast, I don't sweat the winter specific pothole stuff as much. CA roads aren't great these days, but in general not the same freeze heaves and huge potholes as many other places.

Mine, running Conti DWS06's as a trial--since I am in NorCal and the snow need is Tahoe as pictured. I still use a dedicated summer set, but then I am more leisurely when I make the change over.

JZK26

yeah makes sense for north Cali. Came across the below - would these work for 2017 S8?

MP4.2+6.0

For an 8.5, you should be dropping back to a 255 or less. You need to check tire diameter as well as selection, but that would likely be a 245/45-20, where I don't think there are al to of winter choices unless you want pretty severe like a Blizzak. Dropping width would be more an icy crud on road type environment, which again could be Midwest, Northeast, etc.

I also suspect that may be an aftermarket one you pulled, though maybe a Q5. If not Audi, you have to be careful on the barrel shape, both near hub and farther out. With big Brembo calipers like S8 has, sometimes the caliper hits there unless you use spacers. A TireRack type place will have test fit them. If you are looking at by price, as a reference, I expect you could find a clean set of the factory twin 10 spokes for $1000, sometimes less. You won't find anything else forged and OE quality like that AFAIK.

JZK26

Following your (very much appreciated) advice, I managed to find the below. What to you think? they are 20*9 et 38

MP4.2+6.0

Yes, makes sense and those are the twin 10's. BUT given the real McCoys are common and are forged, confirm that those are factory OE ones and not some replica. The OE ones are often available for good prices if you look.

You can be 99%+ sure if you see the back side. If there are cast in references--part numbers, ET, manufacturer, etc.--on the back of the spokes, they are...cast. If the Audi part numbers, ET, etc, are stamped into back of the area close to the hub, those are the real ones. I'm also a little suspicious because you mention ET38, but I thought the OE's are ET37. See the last two pictures of this eBay ad for what that stamping should look like. https://www.ebay.com/itm/20-OEM-Grey-Machined-20x9-Wheels-Audi-A7-A8-S7-S8/173488667078?fits=Make%3AAudi&hash=item2864baf9c6: g:tt4AAOSwEm1bIXPy Wheels in ad were not in great shape, but an example I could find quickly for the picture value.

BTW, here is the page for the manufacturer where the real ones come from. They don't put their markings on any of the forged designs Audi uses, but these are the specs for the real ones. https://www.fuchsfelge.com/en/wheel-...wheel-262.html

JZK26

thank you. The original wheels I showed above refused to provide back side pics so I dropped out.
Separate question: is there any benefit to more spokes onto he wheel (assuming both are forged)? For example, of the two below- is it just a matter of taste and looks assuming both are forged?

MP4.2+6.0

Run don't walk, just as you decided. ET38 (wrong...) was a likely give away of a misleading product, coupled w/ the evasive reaction.

In general, the number of grouped spokes is just going to common sense affect the strength some. If they are close together, probably not so much. Thus I focus on the count of the groupings of spoke components: twin 7, or the twin 10 spokes you looked at, or the peeler type tripled up 5 spoker's in another pic you included. The last are going to be the the heaviest, simply because they are cast. No forged version of that in OE. Since not forged and basically five main supports, probably not the strongest of the bunch. BUT as OE (and IF OE--there are definitely replica peelers out there being shilled) still going to be on strong side. Even more so when factory spec'ed it for a 4,000+ pound vehicle, as opposed to one size fits a lot sorta aftermarket that maybe was spec'ed more toward 3,500 pounds and/or wanted to lessen manufacturing cost or show a lighter weight spec. The twin 7's are the lightest known factory 20x9's, and forged if OE in the 20's. (There are also some OE twin 7's BTW that are not 20x9; those are painted rather than bicolor polished, and they have cast part #'s on back spokes) The twin 10's are logically somewhat stronger just given the extra three sets of spokes around the circumference. Two pound difference between them, probably essentially the extra three spoke sets, but still probably 6 or so pounds lighter than any of the cast OE 20x9's. The final ones you posted might be used on D4 W12; I have yet to see a D4 W12 on the road even after all these years, and having owned the D3 W12 and seeing quite a few over the years. Given that spoke count and spacing, likely to be quite strong even cast. Probably among the heaviest too just given all that metal.

Generalizations aside, I ran the twin 7's in OE 20x9 with the stock D3 tire size 275/35-20 on my prior W12 for almost ten years and close to 120K miles. Has another 30K plus now with family. Never a bent wheel, and D3 was a 35 series. Admittedly "CA" roads, but we rank now like 40th on per capita road spending, so certainly still crappy road maintenance. Just not the winter heave stuff and sudden potholes so much. Only about 15K miles so far on my new watch w/ D4 S8 and the twin 7 OE, but now I am on 40 series for stock general diameter for D4 and expect less likelihood of an issue. Twin 10 OE's sell on the used market for less when you find a well priced set, and there are more sets out there in general. I have occasionally seen a pretty clean set of twin 10's down as low as $1K and more often down to around $1,200, while twin 7's in clean shape are rarely $1500 and often around $2K even for a pretty good deal. The real magic is if you can get them as takeoffs with tires, and have a use for the tires. Tires don't affect the sale price for private party ones that much, at least the best priced ones. Most donor wheels probably come from A7's/S7's, and the tire size there crosses to D3, not D4.