Redd

Just a simple question, before I drop the road pan and take it out. Is the drain plug a T40 or T45? I've heard both, and if it is a T45 I'll need to pick one up.

MP4.2+6.0

T40, from just doing 2013 2.0T (Hybrid) two days ago. Plus a T25 w/ screwdriver handle for the zillion fasteners around the belly pan. Some are dual fitted for Phillips, but T25 does it in one tool.

Redd

Thanks. And now you say T25 for the others, that someone else had said (elsewhere) were T20. Ah well, at least I've got those both. The T25 will fit those three "slotted but also Philips" screws too?
I was thinking of properly re-engineering the car, and changing the three oddballs to the same T25 as the others. A rare touch of OCD. And too many years in another car where "everything" was a 10mm hex, except a rare few 14 and 17.

If I really stretch my luck, would you know what the thread and pitch on the three deviant screws are? I'll call my favorite odd screw place to see if they make them in Torx.

I think there's a Fuku-whatever quick drain valve that's going to replace the drain plug in any case. As long as I can find a neat way to route a drain hose out from under the pan. Then it will be flip, flip, drain, no tools required. (I have an extractor, but if all I need is a jug and some gravity,,,you know?)

HZ60

Redd,
At some point, Audi actually did change those "slotted but also Phillips" fasteners to a T25 torx head. I think they're called dowel pins. They don't thread in, just a quarter turn once they're in all the way locks them into place. There are 9 of them on my 2017 3.0T. On my previous Q5s it was a real PITA finding a flat or Phillips that fit well, big improvement w/ the T25 head. You can probably get a set at the dealer or online.

MP4.2+6.0

T25 fits all of the screws under mine. But there are two types in turn. One is as pictured in other replies, which are most of them. The three along the back of the pan by the tranny have retainers so typically don't come fully loose. And in turn when you realize that, it's best to remove all the front and side ones first, since the front edge also locks in with some simple large tabs. Likewise you insert those on the way back in, you can tighten a rear one or two screws first while supporting the panel. Rest are then simple. Way easier than older Audi's used to be. And as for the second type, those have "normal" screw threads. They are the ones close to the front of the wheel well areas IIRC. IIRC those may take only the Torx tool, while the others can use either Torx or Phillips. Here is a link to ECS for those T25 ones, including the spec: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ach/n90775001/ FWIW, they show the dowel ones in OE as Torx only in the pics, like this: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ach/8w0805121/ But my 2013 is totally stock and has the ones they list (for a lot less) from Febi and have the dual T25/Phillips heads: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-febi-par...8k0805121~feb/

Redd

Thanks, guys. I'll be fore-armed with the right tools and if that doesn't work...he he, I have duct tape.(G)
Sounds like Audi could have used Dzus fasteners, but since Volvo was using those 40 years ago..."NEIN!"
I'm sure there's a good engineering reason why they ALL aren't "Audi Dzus" whatever dowels....

jonty123

I am having a torrid time trying to open the drain plug to throw out extra oil (I overfilled by mistake and engine is smoking). Nothing fits the drain plug- I have T40,45, Ms (12 point), hex ones. It’s terrible. Don’t know why they have to make it so bloody difficult. Audi Q5 2013, 2L turbo. Any help will be appreciated.

Bob Petruska

It's a T45.........