Osmosis

I've been having some challenging problems with my A6 2.7t. I rebuilt the engine a few years ago and runs great with an APR stage 1 tune. Up till recently, I've had some sensor issues and running rough. I got home from a 3 week training program for work at the beginning of May. The car sat @ a park and ride for the 3 weeks. Driving home, it started to sound like it was missing and in fact it was. I changed the coils, plugs and finally found the ICM to be the problem. I replaced the ICM's and the car ran fine for 3 weeks. Since then, I had the code for the cam position sensor, replaced it which turned out to be a bad sensor. I got a Bosch sensor, the code went away, however, the rough idle did not resolve. Then I got a P1340 code. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor. After replacing the sensor, I still have the rough idle and the P1340 code.

What next? Just looking for some good direction and hoping someone has had similar issues so I can fix this car

Osmosis

I've been chasing the codes being thrown at me. The ICM never threw a code, but once I figured that out..it made sense. I was surprised no code came up but that was an easy fix. The cam sensor code came up, fix that, then the crankshaft sensor. After all items were addressed via the codes given, not throwing parts at it. I still have the P1340 code after replacing the sensor with a Bosch CPS. Next, my plan is to open the valve cover in bank 1 and inspect the markings on the camshaft/tensioner chain and pads, hoping to find something that will answer this problem. After addressing all codes and problems, verifying the camshaft position, chain and related components is next up.

johnkk

Are you using rosstech vcds? I would log the missfires while driving. Here's the link to rosstech's 1340 code diagnosis. It shows the drawing of the chain link count.

17748/P1340/004928 - Ross-Tech Wiki

clancy

You mentioned it sat at Park and Ride for 3 weeks. Any chance a critter got into it and feasted on some wires? Or cracked one of the the spider hoses while crawling around? What are the fuel trim numbers?o

Osmosis

Hey everyone, thank you for the replies and good info. It's been a while since I've been here, I recently had rotator cuff surgery and have not been able to do anything for the past 4 weeks. 2 more weeks before I even do any PT That being said, I have been thinking about my codes. I still get the camshaft sensor code and my crankshaft position sensor code with a miss@ idle. I found an interesting article about shocking the camshaft tensioners which I was able to do with one arm while holding a flashlight in my mouth. Mechanics: Found: Camshaft Adjuster Fix!!! Consequently, this did not work

I no longer the the p1340 code, but my codes that are recurrent are the P0341 bank 1 or single sensor A circuit and P0300 random multiple misfires

All I can think of is removing my valve cover and making sure the cam mark is in the correct position. I"m hoping to be able to do this with one arm. I can't lift my arm much above my belt line as of yet and it sucks!

As to the vagcom, I have the light ( free ) version and torque pro. I have no clue where to find the blocks on vagcom you are referring to unless it is not in the free version of vagcom?

I inspected all wires and have not found any problems as of yet. I may remove the stage 1 tune and put in the stock ECM just to rule things out.

Thank you all for the help!

Osmosis

I just checked the voltage to the camshaft sensor on bank 1 and I got a consistent 5.02 volts with key on engine off, also engine on. From what I found that is the desired signal voltage to the camshaft position sensor.

What next? Valve cover and Cam timing chain inspection

clancy

I would still go back to a wire issue. Old car, lots of hot to cold cycles, lots of moving wires while working on car. Then it shows up after sitting in car park for weeks. If issue was not evident before then I would wonder what happened while sitting. Maybe just a coincidence, maybe not.

Osmosis

I"m gonna have to chase the wires. I can do that with one arm. I just hate to cut the stock black wire covers as it does look nice and does a good job. I was told on another forum that it is most likely the sensor/wiring & to unplug the sensor and drive it to see if it makes any new codes. I did that, no dice, same p0300/0341. Strange thing is that the car drives fine, just idles like crap as I can hear the miss every few seconds.

I was thinking that since I had changed the sensors, both camshaft and crankshaft senors that it was a problem with the cam timing. I was thinking that the camshaft adjuster pads had fractured or somewhere along those lines regarding cam timing. I was highly doubting the camshafts jumping a link as I have had 4 cars that were 10 second cars, never jumped a tooth, yet also a different animal's as they were V8's, one V6 with no overhead cams. That being said, the camshaft alignment was in my thought process.

Thanks for the help everyone

clancy

Not disagreeing with your plan of action. However, if you looked at the VCDS while it is missing and then knew which cylinder you could try swapping coils. If they are old they could be an issue. Also, simpler to do this first and rule it out before digging in deeper.

Osmosis

Can I check this via VCDS light? If so, how?

I did purchase new coils, plugs, and ICM when I first had the miss. When I first had the issue, I could feel a surge @ certain RPMs while driving on the freeway. I had to drop the car into a gear lower to drive without the surge, then it ran fine. The car did not generate any codes so I assumed spark,fuel,air. Changing the plugs, coils and then ICM resolved the issue. Those symptoms resolved after addressing the ICM's. However, 3 weeks later, the new issue is a miss@ idle started with a code P0341 and P1338 crankshaft position sensor/speed sensor. I've replaced both sensors and now the only codes I get are the P030/0341. Now, the car has no issues in the rpm range at all other than idle. I ran the car with the camshaft position sensor unplugged with no changes, no new codes.