2002 audi tt quattro not hitting full boost
#21
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Oh, well let me give you and example. I had only two Check Engine codes showing up on my OBD-II Scanner. Both weren't actual problems.... P0444, from EVAP delete and P0113 iAT Sensor high input. Anyways, I bought this scanner to originally diagnose a Quattro fault but when I scanned the Engine module, turns out that it was detecting 2 more codes that the obd scanner never detected, which were 17695 Boost pressure control valve open circuit (FROM EVAP I THINK) and also an additional code too.
But all in all, what im trying to say is that the VAG scanner is a much more thorough scan and you can go into like every single module there is.. you can scan codes on your ABS, your Radio, if OEM, dash cluster, clear airbag lights, ESP System, AWD system, like EVERYTHING.
Anyway, this could be a good device for you because you may have a few codes that the OBD scanner isnt picking up and those could be the cause to your problem. Even if you dont have any problems on your car, I highly recommend getting one just to have it.
But all in all, what im trying to say is that the VAG scanner is a much more thorough scan and you can go into like every single module there is.. you can scan codes on your ABS, your Radio, if OEM, dash cluster, clear airbag lights, ESP System, AWD system, like EVERYTHING.
Anyway, this could be a good device for you because you may have a few codes that the OBD scanner isnt picking up and those could be the cause to your problem. Even if you dont have any problems on your car, I highly recommend getting one just to have it.
#22
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Oh, well let me give you and example. I had only two Check Engine codes showing up on my OBD-II Scanner. Both weren't actual problems.... P0444, from EVAP delete and P0113 iAT Sensor high input. Anyways, I bought this scanner to originally diagnose a Quattro fault but when I scanned the Engine module, turns out that it was detecting 2 more codes that the obd scanner never detected, which were 17695 Boost pressure control valve open circuit (FROM EVAP I THINK) and also an additional code too.
But all in all, what im trying to say is that the VAG scanner is a much more thorough scan and you can go into like every single module there is.. you can scan codes on your ABS, your Radio, if OEM, dash cluster, clear airbag lights, ESP System, AWD system, like EVERYTHING.
Anyway, this could be a good device for you because you may have a few codes that the OBD scanner isnt picking up and those could be the cause to your problem. Even if you dont have any problems on your car, I highly recommend getting one just to have it.
But all in all, what im trying to say is that the VAG scanner is a much more thorough scan and you can go into like every single module there is.. you can scan codes on your ABS, your Radio, if OEM, dash cluster, clear airbag lights, ESP System, AWD system, like EVERYTHING.
Anyway, this could be a good device for you because you may have a few codes that the OBD scanner isnt picking up and those could be the cause to your problem. Even if you dont have any problems on your car, I highly recommend getting one just to have it.
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#25
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ok so I got the vag com scan tool today and here is what I found the first one was the secondary air injection which I told you guys I already knew. I also got a engine start blocked by immobilizer code 17987
power supply terminal 30, voltage too low code 18010
charge pressure control, negative deviation code 17964
so these are the codes and my dad checked the battery and it is low so I'll probably replace the battery or charge it but I'm more interested in the charge pressure code and the engine start code I have had an issue in the past where when I turn the car on it slowly turns off but it's gone away but it come and goes I could look into that too but I think the motor not having power is the charge pressure.
power supply terminal 30, voltage too low code 18010
charge pressure control, negative deviation code 17964
so these are the codes and my dad checked the battery and it is low so I'll probably replace the battery or charge it but I'm more interested in the charge pressure code and the engine start code I have had an issue in the past where when I turn the car on it slowly turns off but it's gone away but it come and goes I could look into that too but I think the motor not having power is the charge pressure.
#26
You’ll see an engine start blocked by immobilized code occasionally. It’s stored from a one time glitch. Nothing to worry about. I would save that scan then Clear all codes and drive it to see what pops up new. At least that is what I would do with VAG com.
#27
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ok glad to know it's just a small glitch and I will go ahead and do that tomorrow right now I'm at work but I will do it tomorrow afternoon and see what pops up that's new and I have a theory the charge pressure negative deviation could that be from before I fixed the other problems because I changed the n75 valve and I never cleaned the codes so could the engine be in limp mode due to this and would clearing the codes make the engine be able to hit full boost?
#28
ok glad to know it's just a small glitch and I will go ahead and do that tomorrow right now I'm at work but I will do it tomorrow afternoon and see what pops up that's new and I have a theory the charge pressure negative deviation could that be from before I fixed the other problems because I changed the n75 valve and I never cleaned the codes so could the engine be in limp mode due to this and would clearing the codes make the engine be able to hit full boost?
#29
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Hey guys so after I cleared the engine codes the car seemed to feel a bit better but it's still not hitting full boost I hooked the boost gauge back up and did some pulls in 2nd and 3rd gear and still not going past 5 psi but I ran an actuator test and it ran everything which was fuel injectors to each cylinder to EVAP canister solenoid, boost pressure control valve, n249, n75 and all that and they all kept saying SHORT TO GROUND. I don't know if I mentioned but a few months ago I was having some fun with the car and I took a corner at a high speed and it was all fun until the flasher relay which is the hazard button started clicking a bunch of times like the flasher where having a seizure but the lights don't turn on and it happens every time I use my turn signals I tried replacing the relay with a brand new one and it still kept doing this could this mean the system just isn't getting power and thus causing it not to hit full boost.
#30
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So update on the audi I checked the fuses and looked at my relays on top of the battery and I noticed that the sudden surge of clicking coming from the flasher relay stops when I remove the fuse for the blinkers so the lever could be bad but I don't think that would cause the boost problem I'm out of ideas on this one guys