Anyone have good install pointers about strut bearings and bushings?
02-06-2007, 05:12 PM
#5
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If you don't have the Hazet, make sure you have all the right tools, otherwise you are wasting...
your time. Need the O2 socket, thin wall spark plug socket, and the right allen wrench...oh and a lot of patience, cuz it can be a pain. Some have had success with the impact though or some other variation of tools.
Be careful what spring compressors you get, if you get some larger universal ones you may find yourself in a bit of a pickle trying to get them to compress right in the wheel well and still able to fit everything back on.
Be careful what spring compressors you get, if you get some larger universal ones you may find yourself in a bit of a pickle trying to get them to compress right in the wheel well and still able to fit everything back on.
02-06-2007, 07:41 PM
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Having just done this and still in process....
First let me say that "Kareem of Wheat" has a great step-by-step write-up on his Fotki. Some things I found different and tools I used:
1) You need a 13/16 spark plug socket and a 7mm allen for the strut bolts. The spark plug socket makes it easy to use an open wrench to turn while the allen wrench is through the top of it. I couldn't get vise pliers to hold the strut from turning as some have been successful with. You also need a deep socket 21mm for the second nut. It was actually a little more difficult because the 21mm does not have a way to use a wrench on it to turn. I locked some vise-grips on the outside of the socket which held enough to still be able to turn the socket with the allen wrench holding the strut through the center of the socket.
2) I could not get the strut out with the top bushing still on. I removed the bushing while still inside the wheel well which gave the strut plenty of room to come out.
3) As far as spring compressors, I got a set at Sears with the safety pins on them. This set is too big without pipe couplings to work inside the wheel well. This part is documented in Kareems Fotki as well. However, I didn't have to grind mine down as I found some thin walled ones at Home Depot that fit fine... At least on the stock one's.
4) If your using the Eibach/Bilstein as replacements, you don't have to compress the springs to fit them back onto the strut. I did on the first one and ended up scratching a lot of the paint off the strut housing. On the second one I realized that the spring was short enough to put the bearing and bushing on and still get the nut on the top.
1) You need a 13/16 spark plug socket and a 7mm allen for the strut bolts. The spark plug socket makes it easy to use an open wrench to turn while the allen wrench is through the top of it. I couldn't get vise pliers to hold the strut from turning as some have been successful with. You also need a deep socket 21mm for the second nut. It was actually a little more difficult because the 21mm does not have a way to use a wrench on it to turn. I locked some vise-grips on the outside of the socket which held enough to still be able to turn the socket with the allen wrench holding the strut through the center of the socket.
2) I could not get the strut out with the top bushing still on. I removed the bushing while still inside the wheel well which gave the strut plenty of room to come out.
3) As far as spring compressors, I got a set at Sears with the safety pins on them. This set is too big without pipe couplings to work inside the wheel well. This part is documented in Kareems Fotki as well. However, I didn't have to grind mine down as I found some thin walled ones at Home Depot that fit fine... At least on the stock one's.
4) If your using the Eibach/Bilstein as replacements, you don't have to compress the springs to fit them back onto the strut. I did on the first one and ended up scratching a lot of the paint off the strut housing. On the second one I realized that the spring was short enough to put the bearing and bushing on and still get the nut on the top.
02-06-2007, 07:46 PM
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I assumed you were replacing the whole suspension...
but just realized that maybe you're just replacing the bearings and bushings. Still most of the my previous post applies, except if it's just the bearings/bushings, you won't even have to remove the strut from the wheel well.
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02-06-2007, 08:01 PM
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of course, but I'm a lazy *** at times, but I just rode 26 miles on my bike tonight!
go figure. I can't figure myself out sometimes. I'm always energetic and on the run, but when it comes to matters like this (just a little teeny tiny mental exercise in searching forums), I'm lazy as hell. Sorry, I'll try being more adept.