Anyone using H3 HID's in their fog lamps? (running lamps) whatever you call them? If so, which
 

HID kit are you using? How do you have them set up etc?

Photos would be great as well! (Again) these are for the fog lamps in the TT housing...

you mean no 2 in the pic?
 

if so, yes. H3 PIAA H.I.D. from TT Stuff. 55w model number H-108...I use them as running lights. 2003 225qm TT BEA engine....
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/8309/headlight.jpg">

Good evening - yes... but I want to swap out with HID's.. which is why I wanted to know if anyone
 

had done the conversion. I know PIAA calls them H.I.D Lights heh... but I meant the ones with the ballasts. Sorry for the confusion there...

I saw the P.I.A.A's on someone else's TT - and they looked ok. However the HID conversion is what I am after... :)

(HID Conversion meaning the H3 light with the ignitor/ballast attatched)

Trying to find out which kit they used etc....

Thanks for the reply

My TT came with all halogens standard, even low-beams.
 

I purchased a kit to replace the low-beams from eBay, company called "VVME". The kit has been working great and it's almost been a year. Many people on Audiworld over in the A4 section seem to use them as well with success. I'd recommend them. The kits are cheap too.

I just purchase a kit - ugh! :( USed buy it now, so I can't go back!
 

Wish I would have read your post the prices are bad ass! :)

My mainlights still need to be replaced, so looks like I may try them.

Have any photos?

ah, the ballast upgrade HID's , I understand now....

Yes sir! I just ordered them.. Now I just need to find someone in Central FLA
 

Or close by that knows how to install the suckers! :) The fog light mod would be nice too.. where they came on with the parking lights vs with the headlights...

the lens and optics will be your issue, not the bulbs>>>>
 

the audi assembly for the TT is uses very poor technology IMO, as compared to the other products they sell....

More than likely you will not see HUGE benefits..

You will need to seperate the wiring at the bulb and it will need to go to the ballast...more than likely you will need another 12v source to develop a charge for the added balast....from there, you will need to mount the bulb (depending on type) in the current assembly (which may or may not handle the wattage/heat) or you would need a new assembly...If it is true H3, it should plug in...

The last piece i would be concerned about is the additional load on the headlight switch...so depending on how many amps the ballast draws, may be more or LESS of a load on the switch....

Personally, i am about to replace my 35 watt ballasts and bulbs with 50 watters...all the ratings are at OR lower OEM as it is a Digital solution..

I will find out soon how they work...

Re: you mean no 2 in the pic?

I was concerned about the optics... as well... but I figured it was actually a better build
 

In the fact that in that small little lens area, it generated a nice bit of light with the halogen alternative.

On the heat aspect - all post's I have looked at and read showed the bulb generated less heat than the halogen alternative.

I did look at the headlight in photos and noticed the gray cover. Figured mounting the h3 bulb into the socket, putting the clamp on it and running the two spade connectors through a little self made hole on the plastic into the ballast.

The ballast pulls less of a load constant:
High voltage converter and ignitor
Operational input voltage 8?32 VDC
Maximum input current 8 A
Minimum voltage loaded (lamp on) 60 V
Maximum voltage loaded (lamp on) 120 V

however I do NOT know where I will pull the power from. :/

We shall see

I've run HID's in the fogs for a while
 

Generic no-name brand HIDs that are made in Korea I believe. Cheap but they don't last. The bulbs last about a year and I've had to replace the ballasts once before but these are also DRLs so they're on pretty much all the time.

You'll have to cut the small covers to run the cables through and try to seal it as best you can. Check the bulbs and see if the widest part of the cable lines up with the notch in the H3 base. If it does you'll have a hard time getting the stock wire clips that hold the bulbs in to clip in.

I have my set relayed, a separate 12V line goes straight to the ballasts with a relay to do the switching on and off hooked up to the stock fog light wire in the housing (only on one side - single relay controls both lights). A flat quick disconnect lug will plug into the stock H3 wire. With the relay, I have no worries about extra load on the headlight switch or current going through the harness. They will be on full bright though if you do it this way but that only matters if you're using them as DRLs which don't run at full brightness stock. There's a set screw in the headlight housing that you can use to adjust the height of the beam after you install them to make sure you're not blinding oncoming traffic.

i have them on my car they work great but you might need to check the level

Any photos of the fogs in use at night? :)

Thank you for sharing all of that with me ShifTT
 

Good little write up. Did you have to take the headlights out to make it work or were you able to work it while the lights were inside?

Thanks you!

nope no need to pull the headlights
 

The fog lamps are accessible behind a small plastic cover. It will be tricky getting the metal clip over the new bulbs with wiring coming out. Helps to have flexible fingers.

There's also not much room on the driver side for the HID ballasts if you still have the stock airbox. I had mine stuck to the front of the battery box using double sided foam tape. There's room under the headlight housing for the ballast on the passenger side.

I don't think I've ever even turned the fogs on in my car. Guess that's city living for ya.