clutch master cylinder .. then hose within 2 weeks?
#1
clutch master cylinder .. then hose within 2 weeks?
ok, here's the question.
beginning of april my clutch master cylinder blew. fine. $500 later i'm back on the road.
2 week later, same exact thing happens...clutch to floor, fluid all over ground. mechanic figures out its the hose to the clutch/cylinder that has gone bad (don't have detail about what exactly happened to the hose). hose has regulator in it and is a $160 part making my total another $500 with the labor.
does it seem reasonable that if my master cylinder blew in the first place that they either didn't see something wrong with the hose or just didn't bother to test it? i was told they don't replace hoses unless something is obviously wrong with it, which i understand.. but 2 weeks later for the hose to go seems fishy. would a clutch master cylinder blowing cause the hose to go bad or put any extra stress on that house that would cause it to go too?
my mechanic is highly regarded and i trust him but i think this might have been a case of them trying to get the job done too fast the first time around (they unplugged my cruise control and didn't plug it back in when they changed out the master).
any thoughts? ideas?
beginning of april my clutch master cylinder blew. fine. $500 later i'm back on the road.
2 week later, same exact thing happens...clutch to floor, fluid all over ground. mechanic figures out its the hose to the clutch/cylinder that has gone bad (don't have detail about what exactly happened to the hose). hose has regulator in it and is a $160 part making my total another $500 with the labor.
does it seem reasonable that if my master cylinder blew in the first place that they either didn't see something wrong with the hose or just didn't bother to test it? i was told they don't replace hoses unless something is obviously wrong with it, which i understand.. but 2 weeks later for the hose to go seems fishy. would a clutch master cylinder blowing cause the hose to go bad or put any extra stress on that house that would cause it to go too?
my mechanic is highly regarded and i trust him but i think this might have been a case of them trying to get the job done too fast the first time around (they unplugged my cruise control and didn't plug it back in when they changed out the master).
any thoughts? ideas?
#2
Was it the clutch master cylinder that you had replaced? If so then I would be
concerned that the hose was damaged when it was done or not attached properly. I have changed all those parts myself (not in my TT but other Audis).
#3
yes.. it was the clutch master cylinder...
assuming the clutch hose is attached to the clutch master cylinder..and i assume yes (don't have bentley i'm Mac based).. they would have to remove that hose to replace master cylinder correct?
grr.
grr.
#4
Yes the clutch master cylinder is fed fluid via the brake master cylinder reservoir by the hose in
..question. The design of the reservoir is such that if the hose to the clutch master cylinder brakes or comes loose only a portion of the hydraulic fluid will leak out thus insuring that you still have breaks. This is done simply by having the clutch hose attachment point higher up the reservoir than the brake feed. To change the clutch master cylinder the hose must be disconnected from same and pinched of so it will not drain. There is a plastic fitting that makes that physical connection and it is held in place with a clip. A ham fisted mechanic could damage the connector, the clip or the hose. OR not properly seat the clip etc. JIM
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#9
ha. yup. i work for RPI.. and live right now
in eastern rensselaer county. moving on monday to historic district of downtown troy.
love the horsies at saratoga, though i can barely stand the heat during racing season!
shannon
love the horsies at saratoga, though i can barely stand the heat during racing season!
shannon
#10
On my V8 I had a similar series of issues>>
first the clutch pedal broke, then the hose to the slave cylinder
in my case, the clutch is nearly worn-out, so the extra effort required to actuate it is causing the old weak parts to fail.
in my case, the clutch is nearly worn-out, so the extra effort required to actuate it is causing the old weak parts to fail.
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