?lueshirt

Well since a big chunk of my $$ is going towards the new projector and ISF calibration, it leave me little left for the "other" things. Such as speaker wire, interconnects, power cords, speaker stands and equipment rack.

Thankfully the Audio/HT world is full of DIY ideas (Do It Yourself)

This project is an equipment stand. All material is from Ikea. Each table (shelf) is $9.95. Yes, you read the decimal pace correct, $10 freakin bucks.

On the bottom is the coffee table minus the legs and then the end tables. I wanted 4 shelves at first bout bought 8 end tables. That way I could get two colors (Silver and black) There is a pretty nice Birch that would have looked great, but it does not match my decor. Price for that is around $15.

Equipment height is measured and 3" added on for heat dissipation. Then the legs are cut to size. If my equipment changes, another $10 gets me another shelf and new legs to cut down.

The only thing left is spikes on each leg. Yes it will penetrate into the top of the shelf but that will add to sturdiness. Spikes can be achieved by a bench grinder and some threaded rod. Or just buy them, they run around $15 per four.

Here is a quote from the person who cam up with the idea. He is also a manufacture of high quality equipment racks. He felt by introducing people to good sounding racks, that would allow them to see the benefit of such and possible move up to his.

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"IKEA's Lack endtables and coffeetables are constructed of an attractively finished natural wood laminates over an expanded foam and chipboard core.
This composition is of high strength, extremely low energy storing mass and has superb internal damping characteristics. Although not designed as such, the construction details of IKEA Lack is that of a laminated constrained layer device.Conceptually, when the material is used as an isolation device, it is not far removed from Russ Andrews RATA Torlyte and my own Neuance performance shelving.
Due to the huge volume and modern manufacturing methods IKEA can sell completed endtable units in a variety of colours or natural wood veneers for $10 each ($15 for beech).No finishing is required for the construction of the IKEA*lyte modular isolation stand.
Changes in racking needs can be accomplished by the addition of other IKEA Lack "modules".
IKEA is available worldwide thru retail outlets and by mail order and the internet.
The sonic and musical performance of the IKEA*lyte will better many commercially available supports costing upwards of $500-600 or more, particularly in the areas of PRaT, note shaping and harmonic textures. Depending on the quality of the spiking used and care in installation, the IKEA*lyte will easily better Sanus,Salamander,Atlantis,Lovan,Billy Bags and many other respected and often costly support systems.
Typical cost for a completed 4 shelf IKEA*lyte rack should run approx. US $95-110, excluding tools and dependant on finish."
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<img src="http://images.fotki.com/v6/photos/1/18279/136060/Picture031-vi.jpg">

o2bnme

I think I'll end up spending about the same amount, but it'll take me more time. I'm currently waiting for my neoprene washers to show up (dampening for each shelf). The URL to the directions aren't online at the moment though. It is an easy concept. Threaded rod, nuts and washers and MDF for shelving. I have a friend who did the cutting for me. He has a table saw as big as a garage, so it was easy.

I'll post a pic when I have it built.

Larrytt

It came out very nice Mike. Can't wait to see it.

economisTT

agree -- looks very nice!

?lueshirt

I have 5/8 threaded rod with tooled spiks sitting in my living room. Upon further research I found out that The Flexy rack realy is nothing more then shelves to hold your equipment.

The Ikea Lyte, which it is called actually performses a degree of vibration isolation.

I was alos concerend about The looks of the Flexy, with the metal rod and painted MDF.

Let me know how it goes.

Also know that if you use the rubber washers, the rack will "flex: (move) that is why it is called Flexy. That worried me. If you dont use the washers you can tighten it down more.

?lueshirt

The legs are hollow, tried to remove ends from the the cut peices, but didnt go so well. Have to figure out what I am going to screw the spikes into. Thoughts?

Larrytt

what's the size of the opening? Are all of the legs the same size?

?lueshirt

Don't know didnt measure it. They should all be the same size. I managed to get one "plug" out. Then tried to inset it into the leg, but I imagine becasue of maybe thee glue on the sides of the plug, once inserted it started to split the leg an its seams. The plug was to big I guess.

I can try shaving them down, but then I run the risk of them being too loose for spikes.

o2bnme

It should minimize the vibrations. I figured that makes some sense.

?lueshirt

The Flexy stand will do nothing to stop vibrations from shelf to shelf. If you threaded rod is spiked on the end, that will help with the vibrations from the room.

But like I said before, the Flext does nothing with regard to isolation from component to component.

I will not even attempt to explain vibration theory. I barley understand it myself. Take a look again at the Ikea rack I built. It IS cheaper then the Flexy, much easier to make, and I think will look better since it IS furniture.

Good luck.