I'll finally be able to join the "lowered audi TT group" LOL!
04-24-2006, 05:28 AM
#1
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,025
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll finally be able to join the "lowered audi TT group" LOL!
I decided to man up and just order a KMAC kit as well as the proper hubcentric rings for my wheels. I was going to just install the H&R coilovers that I came in last week; but after being on this board for awhile now; I almost started feeling guilty for even thinking of not doing it right the first time....oh well. Now if only it would stop raining!!!
04-24-2006, 06:54 AM
#3
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,522
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just put a set on this weekend
Good feel, and I pick up a wheel going in and out of my driveway. It can drop the front incredibly far, really tucking the tire up and in the fender well. The rear though can only go to the point that the top of the tire is even with the fender arch. I had to bring mine up a bit, with the way I drive (I don't slow down for anything) it makes more sense to run higher. I have one more adjustment to make, then I will be ~1.5" down on all four corners.
04-24-2006, 08:39 AM
#6
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,522
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yup .
Put the car in the air, pull the tires, and the fronts can be adjusted using supplied wrenches.
In addition to that, to adjust the rear you have to put a jack under the hub for support. Pull the bottom shock / sway endlink bolt. Drop the hub a bit (using the jack). Adjust as needed. Jack up the hub to align the bolt. Torque down the bolt.
Put on tires. Drive, smile.
Having the jack there isn't critical, but it is nice to hold things steady while you are trying to put the bolt back in. Plan an hour for adjustment on all four corners, taking your time with a tape measure and a pad to see where you are. The adjustment on the rear is deceptive, as the amount of adjustment translates to a longer throw at the hub. I will reply to this post later tonight with a means to convert between the adjustment and the actual drop (I have one more measurement to do).
--Tim--
In addition to that, to adjust the rear you have to put a jack under the hub for support. Pull the bottom shock / sway endlink bolt. Drop the hub a bit (using the jack). Adjust as needed. Jack up the hub to align the bolt. Torque down the bolt.
Put on tires. Drive, smile.
Having the jack there isn't critical, but it is nice to hold things steady while you are trying to put the bolt back in. Plan an hour for adjustment on all four corners, taking your time with a tape measure and a pad to see where you are. The adjustment on the rear is deceptive, as the amount of adjustment translates to a longer throw at the hub. I will reply to this post later tonight with a means to convert between the adjustment and the actual drop (I have one more measurement to do).
--Tim--
04-24-2006, 08:41 AM
#7
tony, make sure you take a measurement before putting them on, therefore assuring that
you have a baseline. especially since springs may settle slightly differently...and will have some settling after a few 100 miles or so. making the adjustments OFF the car is alot more easier than ON the car, but if you dial them in close to where you want to, its easy to make parallel adjustments (L and R) then.
Trending Topics
04-24-2006, 08:42 AM
#8
careful when you park (watch for parking tombstones), when you go over steep
driveways (front bottom nose gets close), over bumps and raised manhole covers (depending upon how crowned the road is), etc.