impressions of my new brake setup...
05-03-2004, 05:26 PM
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impressions of my new brake setup...
I went to Audi to get my brakes rebleed, and the senior tech (ex porsche tech) looked at my brakes and said my bleeder screw should be on top - they were on the bottom. Apparently, ECS forgot to switch the bleeders since our brake are located infront of the rotor vs. behind in 993, S4, etc.
You can see the bridge on top and bleeder on the bottom.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/24538/brakes_002.jpg">
Needless to say, I will be complaining to ECS about their damned goof up. It's no wonder I couldn't bleed the brakes! Also, they powder coated it in this position, so some of the paint was marred and chipped when relocating the bleeder screws, and had to pay to bleed my brakes! What sucked was that I ended up flushing all the race brake fluid that I bought for $20 for a quart, PLUS another quart of some synthetic stuff. We'll see if they make up for it.
Anyhow, to the brakes. Holy cow! I burnished the brakes yesterday, so they were all broken in. With the brakes finally bleed properly I was able to test these puppies out. When they say, "stop on a dime" they mean STOP! The grip is amazing! There seems to be no issue with bias either, even with the larger rear rotor. Combined with my recently installed rear sway bar, the car feels almost like a different animal! Anyone who feels like the stock brakes and rear sway ber are "good enough" have not ridden in a TT with larger brakes or sway bar installed. If you have a chance at the next upcoming event, ask your fellow TTer to let you drive. You'll be more than impressed.
Here we are trying to increase horse power, but should be increasing the braking and the balance of the car. I dont' regret the order of modifications I've taken, as I'm new to the racing/auto-x scene and just beginning to understand the need for brakes and less understeer. Had I been in racing I would have done my modification in this order:
1) suspension - lowering and adding sway bar
2) brakes
3) intake and exhaust (cat back at least)
3) chip
The remain mods I have are great for power, but pretty useless if I can control or stop the car. At the auto-x, there are cars with less hp whose time were better than the higher hp car because they were better balanced - suspension. Hp and torque are great when there are long straight aways.
I can't wait to try out my new set up at this month's track event!
One bad thing about my brake upgrade, my front SL3 do not clear the brake without using a large spacer! AND it rubs the fender! Contacted OZ to see if they have developed a new face for the SL3...nope, still only have one 5x100 center! So, they are rebuilding my wheel, taking 1/2" off the lip, and increasing the inside by the same. They will use the same center, which means I will need to continue running the 20mm spacer. My fronts will now be 19x8.5 ET 41, but with the 20mm spacer, I'll have a 21mm offset, and will be able to clear the fender. For now, I'm going to run my FLik Lex's (17x8.0 ET 35), which only requires a 5mm spacer! When doing brakes, make sure you have ample amout of back spacing! Lesson learned.
You can see the bridge on top and bleeder on the bottom.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/24538/brakes_002.jpg">
Needless to say, I will be complaining to ECS about their damned goof up. It's no wonder I couldn't bleed the brakes! Also, they powder coated it in this position, so some of the paint was marred and chipped when relocating the bleeder screws, and had to pay to bleed my brakes! What sucked was that I ended up flushing all the race brake fluid that I bought for $20 for a quart, PLUS another quart of some synthetic stuff. We'll see if they make up for it.
Anyhow, to the brakes. Holy cow! I burnished the brakes yesterday, so they were all broken in. With the brakes finally bleed properly I was able to test these puppies out. When they say, "stop on a dime" they mean STOP! The grip is amazing! There seems to be no issue with bias either, even with the larger rear rotor. Combined with my recently installed rear sway bar, the car feels almost like a different animal! Anyone who feels like the stock brakes and rear sway ber are "good enough" have not ridden in a TT with larger brakes or sway bar installed. If you have a chance at the next upcoming event, ask your fellow TTer to let you drive. You'll be more than impressed.
Here we are trying to increase horse power, but should be increasing the braking and the balance of the car. I dont' regret the order of modifications I've taken, as I'm new to the racing/auto-x scene and just beginning to understand the need for brakes and less understeer. Had I been in racing I would have done my modification in this order:
1) suspension - lowering and adding sway bar
2) brakes
3) intake and exhaust (cat back at least)
3) chip
The remain mods I have are great for power, but pretty useless if I can control or stop the car. At the auto-x, there are cars with less hp whose time were better than the higher hp car because they were better balanced - suspension. Hp and torque are great when there are long straight aways.
I can't wait to try out my new set up at this month's track event!
One bad thing about my brake upgrade, my front SL3 do not clear the brake without using a large spacer! AND it rubs the fender! Contacted OZ to see if they have developed a new face for the SL3...nope, still only have one 5x100 center! So, they are rebuilding my wheel, taking 1/2" off the lip, and increasing the inside by the same. They will use the same center, which means I will need to continue running the 20mm spacer. My fronts will now be 19x8.5 ET 41, but with the 20mm spacer, I'll have a 21mm offset, and will be able to clear the fender. For now, I'm going to run my FLik Lex's (17x8.0 ET 35), which only requires a 5mm spacer! When doing brakes, make sure you have ample amout of back spacing! Lesson learned.
05-03-2004, 06:52 PM
#4
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well, it's hard to for air bubbles to sink...their instructions were for the S4, so there were
things I need to guess, i.e., which way the bleed screws needed to be, the bolts that attach the caliper to the bracket were different then the instructions, and a few other things. For almost $2g's you'd expect a bit more.
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05-03-2004, 09:57 PM
#10
I had to do the same with my wheels
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/50555/nathans_tt.jpg"></center><p>hopefully you'll come to same conclusion. even though they look perfect now, you can have even 'more' perfect. i had 2.25" front lip, 2.75" rear. i now have 1" lip front. thing looks SO incredible, i can't even figure what i was thinking before.
this pic is from now.
this pic is from now.