Installed: Eibachs & Bilsteins... now my headlight aim is for sh*t! Can anybody help?
08-09-2002, 05:19 AM
#3
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Who did the install?? Check to make sure they did not break the rear
xenon self adjustor on the drivers side. Very easy not to take it off and break it while trying to get the reae springs out. I know b/c Vishal broke mine.
08-09-2002, 05:25 AM
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Don't know. But last night was the first time I've driven my TT since the chassis install...
...<font color="003366"> and the low-beam cutoff has dropped precipitously since the last time I was in the car at night. Now, the cutoff is about 30ft ahead of the front fascia.
It wasn't that low before. I also had the battery run dead after SWMBO left the dome and map lights on over the past weekend. Can anyone tell me if the dynamic leveling of the Xenons is controlled by the ECU? And if so, could a power interrupt f*#k up the headlamp aim?
I had to go dig out my radio code, so my SAFE sound system would work. Gawd only knows what the ECU actually Cs.</font>
It wasn't that low before. I also had the battery run dead after SWMBO left the dome and map lights on over the past weekend. Can anyone tell me if the dynamic leveling of the Xenons is controlled by the ECU? And if so, could a power interrupt f*#k up the headlamp aim?
I had to go dig out my radio code, so my SAFE sound system would work. Gawd only knows what the ECU actually Cs.</font>
08-09-2002, 05:25 AM
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front drops 1.3" rear drops 1.2" i believe
so yah, not surprising if they get screwed up a bit. however, i'd put a ruler between each wheel and fender to do a sanity check, make sure nothing is really F'ed up.
as for aiming your xenons, there are three things that work.
1) there are ***** on top of the xenon housing. look carefully on the black paneling, it'll say "UP<- ->DOWN" and "LEFT<- ->RIGHT"
2) there are auto-adjustment arms on the rear control arms. move the attachment point on the rear controlment (this only adjusts vertical position)
3) final option is to adjust mechanically. take the black paneling off. there are two torqs screws on top that you can remove and gain _some_ maneuverability. if that isnt enough, remove wheel wells to gain access to the third mount point. if THAT isnt enough either, remove the whole front of the car to gain access to the fourth and final mount point.
my advice is to do this all on level ground facing a garage or something with stratification, so it can be used like a ruler.
as for aiming your xenons, there are three things that work.
1) there are ***** on top of the xenon housing. look carefully on the black paneling, it'll say "UP<- ->DOWN" and "LEFT<- ->RIGHT"
2) there are auto-adjustment arms on the rear control arms. move the attachment point on the rear controlment (this only adjusts vertical position)
3) final option is to adjust mechanically. take the black paneling off. there are two torqs screws on top that you can remove and gain _some_ maneuverability. if that isnt enough, remove wheel wells to gain access to the third mount point. if THAT isnt enough either, remove the whole front of the car to gain access to the fourth and final mount point.
my advice is to do this all on level ground facing a garage or something with stratification, so it can be used like a ruler.
08-09-2002, 05:49 AM
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I think the leveling is controlled by a far more simpler mechanism.
and the ECU is not used for this, and of course I could be wrong.
I thought your were referring to your left/right headlights not being aligned.
I thought your were referring to your left/right headlights not being aligned.
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08-09-2002, 06:11 AM
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You are correct, it's a little dohickey under the car on the driver's side
toward the rear. Dave Z who installed my brakes was surprised to see it just hanging there...might have gotten bumped and just needs to be adjusted.
08-09-2002, 06:49 AM
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Here is the info you are looking for....
the xenon's aim height is controlled by the baseline setting of the adjuster screws on the housing and self corrected by the fore and aft self-leveling height(yaw) sensors. When you drop your car the arms on the sensors are forced to move beyond their normal range of motion. This generally results in the front one bending and often the rear one breaking off entirely. which in turn aims your headlights in the exact manner you describe...straight down at the road. To avoid this you have to adjust the attachment points on the sensors so they don't bend and break. otherwise, you can disconnect the sensors, use a vag to put the headlights into "adjustment" mode, and adjust them manually back to correct height with the adjuster screws on top of the housing....
hope that helps...
dave w
hope that helps...
dave w
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