TToplessTTs

The first side took me probably two hours or more. The second side took about 30 minutes. Here are the problems that I had on the first side and the things I did different from the Fotki notes that I had printed.

Honestly the worst thing was trying to get the strut out once everything was disconnected. I could not get the strut pushed up far enough to get it out of the steering knuckle. What I finally did was use a jack to push the control arm up and removed the 21mm nut through the top of the car. Then, I lowered the control arm and removed the strut mount, bearing, and perches. This allowed plenty of room to raise the strut out of the knuckle and remove it from the wheel well. (Of course make sure the springs are compressed prior to doing this).

So on the second side this took much less time. Also on the second side, I realized that the Eibach springs are short enough on the Bilstein struts that they don't need to be compressed prior to putting them in the car. This saved time as well as prevented me from chipping the paint on the strut with the spring compressors. I installed in the same exact order as I removed it, meaning the strut went it to the steering knuckle with the spring, and then I put the perch, bearing, and mount on. Jacked up the control arm to make the strut flush with the top of the car and bolted and tightened the 21mm nut, as well as the other nut. (not sure of it's size but used a 13/16 spark plug socket). Then everything else put back together.

I wish I had removed the top components first as it would have saved a lot of time. I must have spent 45 minutes just trying to get that strut out... There just doesn't seem to be enough room.

Anyway, I thought this may help anyone that attempts this in the future.

I'll be installing the rear and 1/2 KMAC tomorrow. Maybe the DEFCON's this weekend, and then the BlueFlame whenever it arrives.

TTacous

Be sure to post your finished pics when you are done

widstje

I spent two days working on them. My first day was drilling out and grinding down an old socket to fit the nut and my ratchet set with an allen wrench socket. Once everything was set I tried to loosen it but eventually rounded the inside of the strut with the allen wrench. I then cut the top 1/4" off and put a single slit in it like you'd have on a screw. That twisted up in no time.

On day two I took an Exacto knife and slowly cut the bushing off and just dropped the strut out. Once out I welded some metal to the threaded part to hold it while I removed the spring.

Sadly I had to do this on both sides. But it was worth it as now I'm riding lower on Koni Sports with H&R Sport Springs. It gives the car a very nice look.

Let us know how the rear struts go.

TToplessTTs

I had seen one post where they used a 13/16 spark plug socket on the top nut. It worked great because that socket also has a head on it so that I could put a open end wrench on it to turn. Then I just put a 7mm allen wrench down through the top of the socket and held it with channel locks. With the springs compressed while on the car the bolts came off fairly easily. I did the same thing for the 21mm bolt but since it didn't have a head on it, I locked vise grips to the outside of the 21mm deep socket and it actually held enough to remove and tighten the bolt.

widstje

$1.50 jobber from a Wal-Mart kit I bought while in college so I didn't mind drilling it out and grinding the sides down a little for an open end wrench. Actually it was quite fun to use the drill press and grinder to make other tools.