this maf work? MAFS - 06A 906 461 G

Yep, one of the VW ones, obviously housing is different -->
 

The Tourag 4.2l uses two of them. Lots of Beetle, Golf and Jetta applications use this MAF and housing.

However, the characteristic curve (output voltage based on air flow) is different and will cause the car to run rich. The ECU will pull fuel and may exceed its capability to do so. Large negative numbers will show up in block 32.

anyone want to place bets on what the next question will be>>
 

i got my money on something to do with how to use the maf but not the housing, or how to remove/install.

Where's the MAF?
 

What's it do?
Why do we need one?
Why can't Audi fix it?
What are these weird screws?
Where can I get one cheap?
Will one from a Toyota work?


LOL....etc..

Hey! how's the Miata doing?

LOL.... sounds like that covers them all>>
 

The Miata is a bundle of fun, but something is a little "off."

It has "max performance" Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires on it, and they feel a little vague. Turn-in is mushy and in high speed cruisin' there seems to be a dead spot on-center.

I added about 7-8psi to each tire and it feels a little better, but the ride is now almost unbearable in town on bad surfaces. And you know it takes a lot for me to say that.

I'm thinking alignment, so I'm going to find a good shop to take it to who will let me specify the settings. Any suggestions on a shop or on settings? I've usually used Gran Tourismo East in Doraville... they set up cars for a lot of local racers and I'm sure they have some Miata experience.

If it still sucks after a good alignment, I'll buy a set of Bridgestone S03s.

How do I know the MAF is bad? -->
 

What's should the g/s readings be?
What's block 32 mean?
What's a VAG-COM?
Do I really need VAG-COM?
...

Making sure your get your daily MAF posting....

Sounds like it may be...>>
 

Alignment. Doesn't sound right, but the car is so adjustable it will probably be easy to correct. The spec that everybody seems to like is the "Lanny" spec. Do a search on Miata net. Guys have been using this one for years. I haven't compared this spec to his, but out of the "Mazda Miata Performance Handbook" by Norm Garrett they show:

Camber F -1/2 to - 3/4 degree R: -3/4 to -1
Caster: More than 5 degrees
Toe in F: 1/16th" R: 1/16th"

BTW, that book is worth getting...Some hokey stuff but a fair amount of good info..Also the factory Printed manual is very good..

The MAF is always bad....:-)
 

Flat tire? MAF
Squeaky swaybar? MAF
PO'd girlfriend? MAF

I also found these.... from a Miata Forum guy...
 

who started with Lanny's settings then experimented from there. He swears by these:

-1.0* camber, 4.7* caster, zero toe (F); -1.4* camber, 1/16" total toe-in (R). Alignment cam/bolts torqued to 120 ft-lbs (F) and 115 ft-lbs (R)

Seems more agressive on the camber (I don't really like these tires anyway), similar on the caster, and a little different on the front toe-in. As I understand it, less toe-in will quicken the turn-in, which may be just the ticket for me given my current complaints.

As another bonus, the guy who came up with these specs runs the same tires I do. We'll see if his personal preferences agree with mine.

Thanks... I'll definitely pick up that book! I'm looking forward to getting this thing set-up for *me*!!! I can see already I'm going to have to buy some alignment tools so I can start playing with settings on my own.

The tools will be a good investment...>
 

A set of toe plates and a bubble camber gauge will run you about $100. Do the Smart Camber and you're at $260 or so...

Just went out amd measured mine and F camber is -1, Rear -1.4 (great minds must think alike!) As I remember I think I'm at 1/16 toe in too. Car feels fabulous on 16" ES100's...