Official DIY for In-Line Walbro Fuel Pump For Audi TT.
06-27-2008, 12:03 PM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Official DIY for In-Line Walbro Fuel Pump For Audi TT.
Hey guys.
Started Searching all over for DIY on how to put an in line fuel pump in while retaining the stock fuel filter. With few luck here and there, I copied APR's design a little bit and went along with it.
I am 18 years old and if I can put this on myself, so can you!
Make sure you solder all your connections, use as many zip ties as possible, and to tuck all your wires nice and neat.
I decided to put a seperate relay on the pump so it would turn on as soon as I turn the key instead of having a toggle switch. Also decided to make my own quick disconnects so it would look as factory as possible and be easy to put back to stock ever if need be.
If any of you have questions as to where I bought the parts or where you can get them from, P/m me and I would be glad to help out. I made the quick disconnects, fuel filter re-locate bracket, and other misc. fuel hoses / connections.
Step one: Jack the car up so that it is level and safe to work on underneath. I have 2 in front, 2 in the rear.
Next step is to remove the skid plate to get to the stock fuel filter location. There are quite a few of these little bolts. You can see them in the picture. Once you take these off you will see the stock fuel filter with the quick disconnects on each end.
The Fuel Filter looks like this!
Push the ends of the quick disconnect with a flat blade and they should pop right off. Have a towel / rag ready to clean up any gas that may pop out of the filter.
Next take your fuel pump and quick disconnect lines and attatch as pictured. If you need quick disconnects, contact me and I will be glad to sell a few.
Tighten your clamp and your fuel pump is set in location.
Next you need to get ground / power to your fuel pump.
Use the supplied connection and solder a wire from positive and negative side of the pump.
Here is where I put the ground for the pump. Under the car.
And the positive I ran up along with the 02 / Wideband wires.
And the finished Product
Now route the positive up along with the 02 wire, in back of the turbo inside of the heatshield across the engine bay, and up to the relay.
Put your skid plate back on, lower the car back down, and you are one step closer.
I forgot to take pictures but this part is pretty easy as well. You need to drop the lower dash under the steering wheel. (I think Jeff Bipes had a DIY on this for a boost gauge?). Find the OEM Pump Relay. It is plugged in but looks like this.
You will see a spot to attatch the wire underneath the relay. Put one of these on one end of the wire.
And attatch it under the 167 relay. Run it through the firewall where you would run wires for a boost gauge. (There is a rubber plug from the factory). Run the wire through the firewall and up to the relay.
Next you will need to power the fuel pump. I used a a wire right from the battery to the relay. You will need an inline fuse with a 15 amp fuse. The inline fuse will look like this.
You can see the fuse in back of the factory airbox mount.
You can also see where I put the ground for the Relay.
Now you have all these wires and not sure what to do with. Put these on each end and make sure you have a cover so they lock into place.
This is your Relay!
Again, if you need any of these pieces, let me know and I will be able to get you them.
Put your wires to the relay as follows:
#167 relay - #86
Ground - #85
+ Side of battery with inline Fuse - #30
+ Side of Fuel Pump - #87
Your final product should look like this! I wrapped everything with electrical tape, used tons of zip ties, and then put plastic wrap around it all for a factory look!
Your done! Almost!
Now you have your stock fuel filter going hm, now what. Answer!
I decided to give mine some bling and make it look somewhat factory / show since a big silver thing wouldnt sit in the bay. I sanded mine down, hit it with primer, gloss back on the sides, few coats of clear coat and I was done. Also polished the top since that is what is visible.
Here's where you mount that big honker!
I made my own mounting bracket that I can also sell if you need one.
Where the feed line for the fuel rail used to plug in (big black box), plug it on top of the fuel filter. These are your feed / return.
Where the fuel line you just put on top of the fuel filter used to be, you need to run a new fuel line. Take your quick disconnects and run a line from the big black box to the bottom of the fuel filter. I used quick disconnects on each. Your return line stays the same. You can see the big long line I used to go from the big black box to the bottom of the filter in this pic.
And That is All! Take a pic of the engine and say wow it looks factory still!
I got a little happy with soldering and the flex wrap so I soldered resistors to where the factory SAI connections were.
Again, if you have any questions on how to get anything let me know. I have everything available and ready to sell. I can sell piece by piece of as an entire kit if need be. I thought a DIY would be fine for people that want a challenge. Any comments or suggestions?
Started Searching all over for DIY on how to put an in line fuel pump in while retaining the stock fuel filter. With few luck here and there, I copied APR's design a little bit and went along with it.
I am 18 years old and if I can put this on myself, so can you!
Make sure you solder all your connections, use as many zip ties as possible, and to tuck all your wires nice and neat.
I decided to put a seperate relay on the pump so it would turn on as soon as I turn the key instead of having a toggle switch. Also decided to make my own quick disconnects so it would look as factory as possible and be easy to put back to stock ever if need be.
If any of you have questions as to where I bought the parts or where you can get them from, P/m me and I would be glad to help out. I made the quick disconnects, fuel filter re-locate bracket, and other misc. fuel hoses / connections.
Step one: Jack the car up so that it is level and safe to work on underneath. I have 2 in front, 2 in the rear.
Next step is to remove the skid plate to get to the stock fuel filter location. There are quite a few of these little bolts. You can see them in the picture. Once you take these off you will see the stock fuel filter with the quick disconnects on each end.
The Fuel Filter looks like this!
Push the ends of the quick disconnect with a flat blade and they should pop right off. Have a towel / rag ready to clean up any gas that may pop out of the filter.
Next take your fuel pump and quick disconnect lines and attatch as pictured. If you need quick disconnects, contact me and I will be glad to sell a few.
Tighten your clamp and your fuel pump is set in location.
Next you need to get ground / power to your fuel pump.
Use the supplied connection and solder a wire from positive and negative side of the pump.
Here is where I put the ground for the pump. Under the car.
And the positive I ran up along with the 02 / Wideband wires.
And the finished Product
Now route the positive up along with the 02 wire, in back of the turbo inside of the heatshield across the engine bay, and up to the relay.
Put your skid plate back on, lower the car back down, and you are one step closer.
I forgot to take pictures but this part is pretty easy as well. You need to drop the lower dash under the steering wheel. (I think Jeff Bipes had a DIY on this for a boost gauge?). Find the OEM Pump Relay. It is plugged in but looks like this.
You will see a spot to attatch the wire underneath the relay. Put one of these on one end of the wire.
And attatch it under the 167 relay. Run it through the firewall where you would run wires for a boost gauge. (There is a rubber plug from the factory). Run the wire through the firewall and up to the relay.
Next you will need to power the fuel pump. I used a a wire right from the battery to the relay. You will need an inline fuse with a 15 amp fuse. The inline fuse will look like this.
You can see the fuse in back of the factory airbox mount.
You can also see where I put the ground for the Relay.
Now you have all these wires and not sure what to do with. Put these on each end and make sure you have a cover so they lock into place.
This is your Relay!
Again, if you need any of these pieces, let me know and I will be able to get you them.
Put your wires to the relay as follows:
#167 relay - #86
Ground - #85
+ Side of battery with inline Fuse - #30
+ Side of Fuel Pump - #87
Your final product should look like this! I wrapped everything with electrical tape, used tons of zip ties, and then put plastic wrap around it all for a factory look!
Your done! Almost!
Now you have your stock fuel filter going hm, now what. Answer!
I decided to give mine some bling and make it look somewhat factory / show since a big silver thing wouldnt sit in the bay. I sanded mine down, hit it with primer, gloss back on the sides, few coats of clear coat and I was done. Also polished the top since that is what is visible.
Here's where you mount that big honker!
I made my own mounting bracket that I can also sell if you need one.
Where the feed line for the fuel rail used to plug in (big black box), plug it on top of the fuel filter. These are your feed / return.
Where the fuel line you just put on top of the fuel filter used to be, you need to run a new fuel line. Take your quick disconnects and run a line from the big black box to the bottom of the fuel filter. I used quick disconnects on each. Your return line stays the same. You can see the big long line I used to go from the big black box to the bottom of the filter in this pic.
And That is All! Take a pic of the engine and say wow it looks factory still!
I got a little happy with soldering and the flex wrap so I soldered resistors to where the factory SAI connections were.
Again, if you have any questions on how to get anything let me know. I have everything available and ready to sell. I can sell piece by piece of as an entire kit if need be. I thought a DIY would be fine for people that want a challenge. Any comments or suggestions?
06-12-2010, 11:27 AM
#3
AudiWorld Newcomer
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Bahrain
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
nice and clean job. I have a 2001 s4 avant that i need to install an in line fuel pump ( i got the walbro 255)but without any fittings. how can you help me out? I can get all the fittings and connectors from you.. you can email me at qaher@qahercom.com
thanx
thanx
02-03-2014, 07:09 AM
#5
AudiWorld Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: san diego, ca
Posts: 178
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1 pump is in the tank, you need to access it thru the panel above the tank. its best to almost run the car dry otherwise you will be bathing in fuel. consider replacing the hard lines with new rubber if they are old. they tend to crack causing fuel leaks. NAPA or Autozone sell it.
02-11-2014, 03:39 PM
#6
AudiWorld Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1 pump is in the tank, you need to access it thru the panel above the tank. its best to almost run the car dry otherwise you will be bathing in fuel. consider replacing the hard lines with new rubber if they are old. they tend to crack causing fuel leaks. NAPA or Autozone sell it.
thank you for the reply, i appreciate it.
how hard is it to take the pump out? i heard its a pain for a noob?
thanks again so much
01-20-2018, 03:03 PM
#7
AudiWorld Newcomer
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Quick disconnect
Hey, I just joined the forum. So I know this post was years ago. But I'm kinda stumped. Where did u get and or what size quick disconnect do you have? I need my car running due to my son being born any day. And I'm stuck on this.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
boxster02
A4 (B5 Platform) Discussion
1
08-01-2009 03:24 PM
paulroad
Audi allroad
5
12-23-2008 08:50 PM
