ok, my brand new VW MAF is dead! One thing I noticed when pulling the sensor is that its almost
07-18-2005, 08:12 AM
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ok, my brand new VW MAF is dead! One thing I noticed when pulling the sensor is that its almost
exactly the same as OEM Audi with an exception of a little resistor. I wonder if that resistor on OEM is the reason OEM reads lower then VW. My OEM is reading 165 where VW was reading 185. Any thoughts on this?
07-18-2005, 08:18 AM
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Here is some technical info posted awhile back by Modshack........
<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1294909.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1294909.phtml</a</li></ul>
07-18-2005, 08:31 AM
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ok, based on that link and search, I realized that some VW mafs are better then others, so which one
do I need? It seems that all work, but some fail on modded TTs. Mine worked like a charm, but only lasted 2 weeks. Is there a better choice? Can someone with similar mods and a VW maf post a part number? Its seems like the part number is the same for all MAFs with an exception of the last (series) letter.
07-18-2005, 09:04 AM
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I have a brand new OEM and it SUCKS! Reading is to low compared to VW one I tried.
My old OEM did the exact same thing. I'm begining to think that OEM 225 ones are de-tuned on purpose to accomodate for a design flaw that makes them fail. As in, de-tuned to read lower readings which may protect the ellectronics (lower voltage in circut) and make the darn thing last longer. So I think I'll fish for a VW one that will give correct readings and hopefully last.
07-18-2005, 04:22 PM
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Need to look for reason of failure?? -->
The primary issue would be getting the thick film resistors dirty. Did you just re-oil your TTDA per chance?
Don't forget that the reading you get out of the ECU is calculated and is dependent on a number of factors. I have correlated ambient temperature to g/s readings mostly because the ECU is controlling air flow via the throttle plate, not that the MAF is reading wrong.
The ONLY way to correctly determine if a MAF is working or not is to map the curve of voltage that it outputs with a calibrated air flow. Not going to be easy to set up. There simply are too many variables at play to look solely at g/s readings to decide that a MAF is OK or not.
My conclusion would be unless you can duplicate the same variables with two different MAFs you really can't say one is bad.
Don't forget that the reading you get out of the ECU is calculated and is dependent on a number of factors. I have correlated ambient temperature to g/s readings mostly because the ECU is controlling air flow via the throttle plate, not that the MAF is reading wrong.
The ONLY way to correctly determine if a MAF is working or not is to map the curve of voltage that it outputs with a calibrated air flow. Not going to be easy to set up. There simply are too many variables at play to look solely at g/s readings to decide that a MAF is OK or not.
My conclusion would be unless you can duplicate the same variables with two different MAFs you really can't say one is bad.
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07-19-2005, 10:18 AM
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Its actually much simpler then that, atleast in my case...
OEM shows 165 where VW shows 185. SO there is definately a different in OEM vs. VW.
As to VW failing it could be due to a resent (1 month ago) re-oil of the filter, but why that didn't effect OEM is beyond me
As to VW failing it could be due to a resent (1 month ago) re-oil of the filter, but why that didn't effect OEM is beyond me
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