questions for those who know auto body work and paint
#1
questions for those who know auto body work and paint
I just posted my experience with a local body shop and have just talked to the service manager there. He asked me to let him have the car for half a day so they can wet sand and buff the car and he said it should look like it came off the showroom floor at that point. My question is this. What is wet sanding? If you could take the time to look over my previous post regarding this, would wet sanding have any effect on the problems I mentioned? Thanks.
#2
I don't know body work like many here, but that sounds like a load of crap
If they buffed through the clear-coat already, then I don't see how wet sanding and buffing can help that. I'd guess he only wants to make the car APPEAR to be properly painted without actually properly painting it. Just a hunch.
I'd demand a complete refund and go to another shop. If insurance paid for it, I'd bring them in on it. The threat of an insurance embargo against the shop should convince them to anty up. I would NOT let them touch your TT again, however.
I'd demand a complete refund and go to another shop. If insurance paid for it, I'd bring them in on it. The threat of an insurance embargo against the shop should convince them to anty up. I would NOT let them touch your TT again, however.
#3
here's the problem. It was an Ins. claim, but they aren't a prefered shop of the Ins. company.
They were recommended by the dealership though, which is why I sent it to them. Unfortunately my dealer doesn't have a bodyshop onsite. Had I been thinking I would have sent it to the other atlanta area dealer who does happen to have that onsite. I think I'm going to let them have the car and try it. Honestly I don't think it's going to help. Just as you said, if it's already through the clearcoat, sanding/buffing is just going to make that worse. I think they are going to be repainting my car soon anyway.
#5
Ugh. Wet sand? Has this place worked on Audis/Mercs/Porsches/BMWs before?
Find a pro body shop that does Euro cars, then get with your adjuster pronto.
Had a neighbor with a similar problem. To make a long story short, it was a complete repaint, and lots of hassle. His adjuster was not at all happy, and there were frequent mentions of legal activity between the body shop and ins. co.
Wet sanding is usually (IME) done with enamel paints--though you could do it, I've never heard of wet sanding water-base paints the Euro manufacturers use. Given the color difference you've seen, make sure they're using the OEM paint. Good luck--but unless you like the different color, don't settle for less than a complete stock appearance when complete. Cheers!
Had a neighbor with a similar problem. To make a long story short, it was a complete repaint, and lots of hassle. His adjuster was not at all happy, and there were frequent mentions of legal activity between the body shop and ins. co.
Wet sanding is usually (IME) done with enamel paints--though you could do it, I've never heard of wet sanding water-base paints the Euro manufacturers use. Given the color difference you've seen, make sure they're using the OEM paint. Good luck--but unless you like the different color, don't settle for less than a complete stock appearance when complete. Cheers!
#6
Actually, wet sanding works great...for primer and furniture(!)...
If you can't get better satisfaction, make sure you inspect the wet-sand, then demand a clear-coat over the top.
That is the only way you will get a shine again.
(Wet sanding is using a specific black sandpaper that holds up to being wet. A lot of auto-body shops that do fancy car jobs will wet-sand the primer and a few initial coats. I do a lot of cabinetry and furniture building. I spray poly-urethane and varnish. I wet-sand with 400 grit between sprays and 600 the final coat. This gives a great *satin* finish, not glossy!)
BTW- this is all by *hand*, not with a buffer!
That is the only way you will get a shine again.
(Wet sanding is using a specific black sandpaper that holds up to being wet. A lot of auto-body shops that do fancy car jobs will wet-sand the primer and a few initial coats. I do a lot of cabinetry and furniture building. I spray poly-urethane and varnish. I wet-sand with 400 grit between sprays and 600 the final coat. This gives a great *satin* finish, not glossy!)
BTW- this is all by *hand*, not with a buffer!
#7
ok, update! I got a professionals opinion
Ok, I spoke to my managers ex husband, who does body work for a dealership and he said that wet sanding is normal for a newly painted car. He questioned their ethics for letting the car leave like that in the first place but said that wet sanding it, if it hadn't been done, will make the paint look worlds better. HOnestly, I think i'm going to tell them that I want the car repainted with factory original paint, which isn't what is on there now. It's close, but the metallic properties just aren't as big, it's very fine now. sigh.... Learn from my horror everyone! Protect your TT!
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#8
Jeff the kind of papers they are talking about are 2000 or 2500 grit and are more like polishing
..paper, they give a very good result when followed by a fine cut polishing liquid.
#9
No one can give you factory origional paint, that is because it is cured at 425 degrees, the only
..... way to do that is with a bare metal body as any rubber or plastic would melt. The reason of this process is speed, if a car needs a touch up at the end of assembly for whatever reason the paint used is different. The paint on your car now is in all likely hood an excellent paint, there is nothing wrong with paints used by the after market. It sounds like the paintwork is not that good. I paint my own cars and bikes and always wet sand and buff out the paint, clear coat too (you do not want to sand through the clear!). I would let them do the wet sanding and buffing and see how it looks. If it is not good enough the ask for a repaint, but more can go wrong by starting over and a wet sand with 2500 grit might just do the trick (these are more like polishing papers than sand papers. JIM...
#10
Right, I understand that the original conditions can't be met
but they could use the same paint, correct? This just doesn't seem like the same paint. The metallic quality just isn't the same as the original paint. I'm going to try the wet sand/buffing first and see how it looks. If it takes out the scuff/scratches/pits and bubbles, i'll be happy I guess. I don't like the fact that they repainted my entire car though, I don't see how it was needed other than lazyness. Thanks Jim.