Rear camber issue...>>>
10-12-2007, 02:06 PM
#1
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Rear camber issue...>>>
I currently have Eibach pro-kit and 1/2 KMAC's on my car. Went to Audi last week for a 4 wheel allignment and the rear left camber was
-2.17 and rear right was -1.47. The RR looks good but you can tell that the RL wheel is really not straight. I asked Audi about it and they said that they can't correct it any more than they did. Is this true? What can I do myself to adjust this? TIA
-2.17 and rear right was -1.47. The RR looks good but you can tell that the RL wheel is really not straight. I asked Audi about it and they said that they can't correct it any more than they did. Is this true? What can I do myself to adjust this? TIA
10-12-2007, 02:22 PM
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Normally true because-->
the tech will likely assume that you don't have the eccentric bushing in there. The car from the factory has no rear camber adjustment.
With a 1/2 KMAC and the Eibach set (1.1" lower I think) you should be able to get -1.5 camber and certainly equal side to side. I bet your tech just didn't understand what/how a KMAC works.
With a 1/2 KMAC and the Eibach set (1.1" lower I think) you should be able to get -1.5 camber and certainly equal side to side. I bet your tech just didn't understand what/how a KMAC works.
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10-12-2007, 02:40 PM
#8
it's a bushing with a bolt in it where the bolt doesn't rotate freely
so when you turn the bolt you actually turn the whole bushing. By turning the bolt (and in turn the bushing) you can move the control arm relative to the subframe, either pulling it in or pushing it our. With the kmac in the lower control arm when you pull the arm in you effectively make the arm smaller and remove camber, adjusting the kmac the other way makes the arm longer and adds camber.
The bushing has a metal sleeve in it that has a D-shape. The bolt that goes thru this sleeve has a corresponding D-shape. That's why when you turn the bolt it turns the entire bushing. If the bolt was thru the center of the bushing all this would do is rotate the bushing in place. In a kmac the bolt is offcenter in the bushing so when you rotate the bolt you change the orientation of the bushing which allows the camber correction as described above.
The bushing has a metal sleeve in it that has a D-shape. The bolt that goes thru this sleeve has a corresponding D-shape. That's why when you turn the bolt it turns the entire bushing. If the bolt was thru the center of the bushing all this would do is rotate the bushing in place. In a kmac the bolt is offcenter in the bushing so when you rotate the bolt you change the orientation of the bushing which allows the camber correction as described above.
10-12-2007, 04:02 PM
#9
I have this in the FAQ, but here it is again...>
Never assume that your dealer, aligner, whatever knows what you're talkling about when you say Kmac. they need specific instructions as it's not something normally seen on our cars...
Note: Only with a full Kmac set is Toe easily adjustable. Drops of over 1" should install a full set.
1) Install Kmacs and set to neutral (centered or stock equivalent setting)
2) Adjust Camber with the lower KMAC to desired setting (I like -1.6). You'll be pulling the bottom of the wheel IN here. If you need more adjustment use the top Kmacs to push the wheel OUT at the top.
3) once Camber is set, proceed to toe adjustment.
4)Rotate BOTH top and bottom Kmacs Equally to pull both the top and bottom of the wheel either In or Out to achieve Spec.
5) Double check Camber and tweek if necessary.
Note: Only with a full Kmac set is Toe easily adjustable. Drops of over 1" should install a full set.
1) Install Kmacs and set to neutral (centered or stock equivalent setting)
2) Adjust Camber with the lower KMAC to desired setting (I like -1.6). You'll be pulling the bottom of the wheel IN here. If you need more adjustment use the top Kmacs to push the wheel OUT at the top.
3) once Camber is set, proceed to toe adjustment.
4)Rotate BOTH top and bottom Kmacs Equally to pull both the top and bottom of the wheel either In or Out to achieve Spec.
5) Double check Camber and tweek if necessary.
10-12-2007, 05:48 PM
#10
i may have a set of lower control arms with Kmac bushings in place with new bolts.
i have to look for the set.
i had a complete set of Kmacs in my car. the way my TT is lowered, i wanted more flexibility in adjustments...got the Forge adjustable control arm for the bottom. took the OEM ones out with the Kmac bushing in place. ordered a new set of special bolts from Kmac. BTW, i don't have or can't find the special tool to take the old bushing out...which you won't need because you can just replace this one with your existing control arm and make adjustments. not sure if its better to replace the top or bottom one, but i'm sure someone here will know.
let me know if you're interested.
i had a complete set of Kmacs in my car. the way my TT is lowered, i wanted more flexibility in adjustments...got the Forge adjustable control arm for the bottom. took the OEM ones out with the Kmac bushing in place. ordered a new set of special bolts from Kmac. BTW, i don't have or can't find the special tool to take the old bushing out...which you won't need because you can just replace this one with your existing control arm and make adjustments. not sure if its better to replace the top or bottom one, but i'm sure someone here will know.
let me know if you're interested.