Save my TT (timing belt)
06-30-2010, 05:07 PM
#1
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Save my TT (timing belt)
2000 audi tt
180 FWD 5sp
143K miles
I woke up this morning and noticed my battery was dead. Needing to get to work I pushed it down a small hill (5mph) and pop started it. It ran really rough for about 10 sec and then died. I tried pop starting it 2 more times with no luck. Then I noticed the timing belt was loose.
My question is:
Do you think this was this enough to cause catastrophic damage to the engine internals? Should I replace the belt and associated parts (water pump, tensioner etc.) and see if it runs? Should I sell it for parts?
Thank you
180 FWD 5sp
143K miles
I woke up this morning and noticed my battery was dead. Needing to get to work I pushed it down a small hill (5mph) and pop started it. It ran really rough for about 10 sec and then died. I tried pop starting it 2 more times with no luck. Then I noticed the timing belt was loose.
My question is:
Do you think this was this enough to cause catastrophic damage to the engine internals? Should I replace the belt and associated parts (water pump, tensioner etc.) and see if it runs? Should I sell it for parts?
Thank you
07-01-2010, 04:03 AM
#2
AudiWorld Super User
2000 audi tt
180 FWD 5sp
143K miles
I woke up this morning and noticed my battery was dead. Needing to get to work I pushed it down a small hill (5mph) and pop started it. It ran really rough for about 10 sec and then died. I tried pop starting it 2 more times with no luck. Then I noticed the timing belt was loose.
My question is:
Do you think this was this enough to cause catastrophic damage to the engine internals? Should I replace the belt and associated parts (water pump, tensioner etc.) and see if it runs? Should I sell it for parts?
Thank you
180 FWD 5sp
143K miles
I woke up this morning and noticed my battery was dead. Needing to get to work I pushed it down a small hill (5mph) and pop started it. It ran really rough for about 10 sec and then died. I tried pop starting it 2 more times with no luck. Then I noticed the timing belt was loose.
My question is:
Do you think this was this enough to cause catastrophic damage to the engine internals? Should I replace the belt and associated parts (water pump, tensioner etc.) and see if it runs? Should I sell it for parts?
Thank you
The belt that you can see when you open the hood is the serpentine belt and this turns only your accessories alternator, power steering pump, AC compressor etc. It being loose could cause the battery to go flat, but wouldn't normally damage anything.
I would either charge/ replace the battery replace the serpentine belt and give it another try. Audis don't do well with dead batteries as it resets all the learned parameters in the ECU.
07-04-2010, 09:01 AM
#4
AudiWorld Super User
You could also do a leakdown test to see if any valves are permanently open (ie bent).
How many miles on the belt? A lot of people change them at 65K so yours is in the window for another one.
Probably tensioner broke.
If the head is not damaged too much you are looking at $1000-$2000 DIY including the timing belt stuff. Car is probably worth at least $4000 fixed.
07-04-2010, 12:12 PM
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No easy way of knowing if you have damaged the head, you could do the timing belt , water pump tensioner service and see if it fires up.
You could also do a leakdown test to see if any valves are permanently open (ie bent).
How many miles on the belt? A lot of people change them at 65K so yours is in the window for another one.
Probably tensioner broke.
If the head is not damaged too much you are looking at $1000-$2000 DIY including the timing belt stuff. Car is probably worth at least $4000 fixed.
You could also do a leakdown test to see if any valves are permanently open (ie bent).
How many miles on the belt? A lot of people change them at 65K so yours is in the window for another one.
Probably tensioner broke.
If the head is not damaged too much you are looking at $1000-$2000 DIY including the timing belt stuff. Car is probably worth at least $4000 fixed.
thanks for the input
07-05-2010, 08:59 AM
#6
AudiWorld Super User
I have no clue when the belt was last changed. I havnt had the car long and was planning on replacing it but it broke before i got to it. Ive seen a bunch of DIY's that show how to replace the timing belt but do you know of any that show how to fix one after failure?
thanks for the input
thanks for the input
I prefer the paper version available for around $65 on E-bay. All the bolt torques and specs are there.
I would strip it down to the timing belt and see what has happened,check TDC etc, if you just jumped a single tooth you might have gotten away with it.
By seeing where the gears are relatively, and looking at the condition of the tensioner and water pump then make a judgement call. You can also "slowly" hand crank the engine and see if all 20 valves are still moving.
If you have a compressor you can rent/ buy a leakdown tester. You pressurize each cylinder with all the valves closed and measure how quickly the pressure bleeds off.
If a valve is stuck open (ie bent) you will loose pressure very fast and you will hear air leaking out either the inlet or exhaust ports.
The head replacement is not that bad but replacing all 20 valves could be a deal breaker. Most of the time the bottom end isn't damaged, but valves and pistons colliding is never good.
07-07-2010, 06:07 PM
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For that kind of job you really need the Bentley Manual, and be fairly mechanically inclined with a good set of tools. This is not something you could fix in the street, although I daresay someone has done that.
I prefer the paper version available for around $65 on E-bay. All the bolt torques and specs are there.
I would strip it down to the timing belt and see what has happened,check TDC etc, if you just jumped a single tooth you might have gotten away with it.
By seeing where the gears are relatively, and looking at the condition of the tensioner and water pump then make a judgement call. You can also "slowly" hand crank the engine and see if all 20 valves are still moving.
If you have a compressor you can rent/ buy a leakdown tester. You pressurize each cylinder with all the valves closed and measure how quickly the pressure bleeds off.
If a valve is stuck open (ie bent) you will loose pressure very fast and you will hear air leaking out either the inlet or exhaust ports.
The head replacement is not that bad but replacing all 20 valves could be a deal breaker. Most of the time the bottom end isn't damaged, but valves and pistons colliding is never good.
I prefer the paper version available for around $65 on E-bay. All the bolt torques and specs are there.
I would strip it down to the timing belt and see what has happened,check TDC etc, if you just jumped a single tooth you might have gotten away with it.
By seeing where the gears are relatively, and looking at the condition of the tensioner and water pump then make a judgement call. You can also "slowly" hand crank the engine and see if all 20 valves are still moving.
If you have a compressor you can rent/ buy a leakdown tester. You pressurize each cylinder with all the valves closed and measure how quickly the pressure bleeds off.
If a valve is stuck open (ie bent) you will loose pressure very fast and you will hear air leaking out either the inlet or exhaust ports.
The head replacement is not that bad but replacing all 20 valves could be a deal breaker. Most of the time the bottom end isn't damaged, but valves and pistons colliding is never good.
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