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I chose to have the crank ground .010 .010 under which means I need .010(.254 millimeter) over main and rod bearings - had no idea how tough it was to find someone that sold .25 over mains.
after failing on my own I called up New German Performance and they were able locate them for me - Thanks
Now to start the fun stuff, I'm going to get as closet to blueprinted as I can
TOLERANCES
Piston ring gap offset: 120°
Compression Ring Gap: 0.15 - 0.40 mm; Wear limit .80 mm
Oil scraper ring Gap: 0.25 - 0.50 mm; Wear limit 1.0 mm
MAINS
I've got two service manuals and when comparing tolerances between the two I come up with some differences for the Crank Axial - I don't think it's much to worry about
1 New: 0.07 - 0.21 mm; Wear limit: 0.30 mm
2 New: 0.07 - 0.23 mm; Wear limit: 0.30 mm
Radial tolerances match between the two
1 New: 0.02 - 0.04 mm; Wear limit: 0.15 mm
Assembly got cut short due to the new oil pump and pickup tube not coming with an o-ring. while ordering that I decided to opt for the new 2 piece oil pan and a few other goodies.
Main and rod bearings arrived - forgot to get pictures , they are ACL Calico coated and cost way more than a little piece of metal should.
After realizing I needed some more specialty tools to do a proper blue printing I decided to take the easy way out and plastigauge it up - Tolerances are all within New spec.
Main caps with new ARP studs torqued to spec
So pretty! all balanced and ready to go
Rings clocked and gaped to spec
Missing a oil pickup o-ring. had to stop here.
Last edited by xeontis; 03-20-2018 at 09:04 AM.
Reason: bearing info
I've made 'some' progress although not as much as I like. The good news is that all my suspension parts are here, I need not wait on any more boxes to arrive for that. The big news is that my motor is finally out of the machine shop and ready for assembly.
New CXRacing front coilovers, new Moog ball joints, new bearings, new hubs, new calipers brakes and rotors, new sway bar end links .. lots of new
BC Racing height and dampening adjustable rear shocks match with springs and adjustable perches. still need to replace rear brakes calipers, rotors and wheel bearings.
Did you replace the calipers with stock? I can't tell by the pics. If yes, you may want to consider a big brake kit to harness all the extra power the new powerplant will be delivering.
Did you replace the calipers with stock? I can't tell by the pics. If yes, you may want to consider a big brake kit to harness all the extra power the new powerplant will be delivering.
Getting back to the build. started on making my downpipe. 2.5" 304 stainless. yeah my welds are ugly but it was my first time doing it so whatever
Regarding the brakes. yes what you see is stock. i was still deciding what kit to run so threw them on just to have brakes. going with the Porsche hybrid still waiting for them to arrive.
inital fireup went very well. only ran for a few seconds, this weekend she's rollin.
decided to run these, if i need more ill upgrade. went with Apikol steel adapters. ill put them on this weekend.
Those Boxster calipers will work pretty well with aggressive pads. I run Carbotech XP 12 in mine. It is possible to fade them but I have only done it once or twice and they gave me warning. Be sure to swap the bleed ports and the crossover tubes end for end so that the larger cyl is trailing. The Porsche mounting is reversed to the Audi’s with the caliper at the back of the rotor rather than at the front. If you don’t swap the ports and tube, the rotation relative to the caliper will cause uneven pad wear because the larger cyl is leading rather than following as it is designed to do.
you will love the firm pedal these give you.
Those Boxster calipers will work pretty well with aggressive pads. I run Carbotech XP 12 in mine. It is possible to fade them but I have only done it once or twice and they gave me warning. Be sure to swap the bleed ports and the crossover tubes end for end so that the larger cyl is trailing. The Porsche mounting is reversed to the Audi’s with the caliper at the back of the rotor rather than at the front. If you don’t swap the ports and tube, the rotation relative to the caliper will cause uneven pad wear because the larger cyl is leading rather than following as it is designed to do.
you will love the firm pedal these give you.
That my friend is great knowledge and thank you for sharing. I can't wait to get this thing done, well at least on the road and driving. Initially we were planning on freshening up the interior and leaving it fairly intact and stock inside. Luckily I got my way and I'll be stripping all unnecessary interior pieces and adding a full cage. I've come to realize this will be a multi year process working solo and unlike what you see on TV it's not built in a matter of weeks.
03-09-2018, 11:18 AM
