tt roadster top problem
#1
tt roadster top problem
the power top has stopped and needs to be pulled up by hand i am told that perhaps the accuator needs to be topped off anyone know where it is and how to access it please tia
#2
The "actuator" is the hydraulic cylinder. Look in the top-cubby behind the driver seat....
It's in there, and a bitch to get at.
notes on repair
"Leave roof up. Sit on knees facing backwards on passenger seat, fold driver seat forward. Feed right arm through rollbar. lift access hatch in rear cover and remove sound absorbing cover. you may have to pull quite hard and may also have to remove the rear panel of the anti-draft window housing to help ease things a bit. Pull plug from solenoid on top of pump housing by first carefully prizing off one end of clip with small screwdriver. Pull relays from connector on side of motor. Unscrew two retaining bolts with 10mm socket on long extension. Pull reservoir side of pump up and remove cable clip from base plate. Rotate pump/motor and loosen two screw holding baseplate with torx 25. Note location of power cable in connector. carefully remove motor power pins from connector block by sticking small blade screwdriver into plug side of connector. Label hydraulic hoses with cable ties or other means to ease re-assemnly. Partially unscrew hydraulic hose retaining screw on back of pump body. pull hoses out, wipe up excess oil leaking out. Remove unit from car. To unscrew the hose retaining screw you will need a torx socket with a thin shank. Hope this writeup is useful to other roadster users
Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly. Its easiest to fill the reservoir on the bench. Fill it to max or overfill it slightly as there will be air in the system. Be careful not to hold the unit upright as oil will run out ports, unless you are cleverer than I am and plugged them first with 4mm bungs. To avoid leakage fot the hoses first. make sure the fittings are seated prperly and that the retaining screw is tight. Its a mild PIA assembly. then fit motor wires back to connector, but first check little tag on back of spade connector sticks out so it does not fall out. Red wire goes closest to the baseplate. DO NOT mix up the wiring as then the rotation would be in the wrong direction. Next bolt the unit and baseplate back together. As movement is restricted and everything is a bit slippery from spilt oil this too is a PIA assembly. Bolt assembly to floor of compartment, re-insert relays and solenoid cable and test. Mine works again! Check oil level and top up with big (wheel bearing greasing or vet)syringe if required. Put noise absorbing cover back and you're done. If you need to remove or replace the solnoid for some reason, remember that on re-assembly the solenoid must be energised by a 12V source.Make sure rear shelf is empty before opening roof to avoid damage. Have fun in the sun!
I forgot to mention: an essential tool is a magnet on a telescopic stick
screws, bolts, socket and little screw drivers like diving down into the belly of the car sometimes"
<img src="http://mk1tt.montebellopark.com/images/pump.jpg">
notes on repair
"Leave roof up. Sit on knees facing backwards on passenger seat, fold driver seat forward. Feed right arm through rollbar. lift access hatch in rear cover and remove sound absorbing cover. you may have to pull quite hard and may also have to remove the rear panel of the anti-draft window housing to help ease things a bit. Pull plug from solenoid on top of pump housing by first carefully prizing off one end of clip with small screwdriver. Pull relays from connector on side of motor. Unscrew two retaining bolts with 10mm socket on long extension. Pull reservoir side of pump up and remove cable clip from base plate. Rotate pump/motor and loosen two screw holding baseplate with torx 25. Note location of power cable in connector. carefully remove motor power pins from connector block by sticking small blade screwdriver into plug side of connector. Label hydraulic hoses with cable ties or other means to ease re-assemnly. Partially unscrew hydraulic hose retaining screw on back of pump body. pull hoses out, wipe up excess oil leaking out. Remove unit from car. To unscrew the hose retaining screw you will need a torx socket with a thin shank. Hope this writeup is useful to other roadster users
Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly. Its easiest to fill the reservoir on the bench. Fill it to max or overfill it slightly as there will be air in the system. Be careful not to hold the unit upright as oil will run out ports, unless you are cleverer than I am and plugged them first with 4mm bungs. To avoid leakage fot the hoses first. make sure the fittings are seated prperly and that the retaining screw is tight. Its a mild PIA assembly. then fit motor wires back to connector, but first check little tag on back of spade connector sticks out so it does not fall out. Red wire goes closest to the baseplate. DO NOT mix up the wiring as then the rotation would be in the wrong direction. Next bolt the unit and baseplate back together. As movement is restricted and everything is a bit slippery from spilt oil this too is a PIA assembly. Bolt assembly to floor of compartment, re-insert relays and solenoid cable and test. Mine works again! Check oil level and top up with big (wheel bearing greasing or vet)syringe if required. Put noise absorbing cover back and you're done. If you need to remove or replace the solnoid for some reason, remember that on re-assembly the solenoid must be energised by a 12V source.Make sure rear shelf is empty before opening roof to avoid damage. Have fun in the sun!
I forgot to mention: an essential tool is a magnet on a telescopic stick
screws, bolts, socket and little screw drivers like diving down into the belly of the car sometimes"
<img src="http://mk1tt.montebellopark.com/images/pump.jpg">
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Shrekster98 (04-15-2022)
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