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What is the correct way to re-torque wheels? (m)

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Old 12-19-2003, 06:25 AM
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Default What is the correct way to re-torque wheels? (m)

Instructions with the new wheels say to re-torque after 100 miles. I have always wondered...does that mean loosening each lug a little bit then re-tightening to spec, or does it mean I should just go around each lug nut making sure I get a click on my wrench without loosening the lug? I've always done it the first way but just double checking.
Old 12-19-2003, 07:29 AM
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Default Do not loosen

Proper process:

1. Torque in a star pattern (not in a circle) for the five bolts. (even numbers items - do in a crossing pattern and in a circle)

2. After torquing - then do a check in a circle pattern. (Do this for the 100 mile check-up)

Email me if you have an questions
Old 12-19-2003, 07:31 AM
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Default Loosen lugs then re-tighten to spec, otherwise..

you won't know if they are torque correctly since they may have been over torque and your initial pressure/torque reading won't reveal this.
Old 12-19-2003, 07:56 AM
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Default Wrong

You only do this if you are unsure that the wheels were done correctly in the first place. Checking is usually done on new wheels and bolts being placed on a car the first time and does not involve loosing them up.
Old 12-19-2003, 02:30 PM
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Default

I've always done the latter
Old 12-19-2003, 03:44 PM
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Default

So lugs tend to loosen and not tighten after the first 100 miles or so? Thanks for the info!
Old 12-19-2003, 03:52 PM
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Default I've done it both ways, but as you say ...

I only re-tighten if I witnessed the 1st time they were torqued or did it myself.

IMHO, half of the people changing tires these days don't know how to torque wheels. If I didn't witness it, I'll loosen, torque, and then re-torque again in a 100 miles.
Old 12-19-2003, 08:53 PM
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Default A couple of things

One you are not the original poster and from reading his/her posting he/she could have installed the wheel themselves.

I am assuming he/she did it or had it done by reputable people.

I also know what it requires to be done. I was trained by very good people - I did this work on Nuclear weapons. I also read a lot about working on cars.

So the requirement was to check the torque not re-torque.

any issue - email me - I am not here to engage in rhetoric. This is one issue I am a expert in
Old 12-19-2003, 08:57 PM
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Default Yes - The issue of being over torqued is a remote issue

If you did the work or had it done at a reputable shop. No worry.

Checking torque is a normal process.

If you had it done where it is questionable - sure then loosen the bolt and re-torque.

Yes you are right. things will loosen not tighten. with new components - things could loosen. Remote chance but could happen.

My suggestion also would be to use antisieze on the threads too. email me for and questions and see my other responses to lean of my credentials.
Old 12-20-2003, 10:50 AM
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Default about anti-seize...

What's your take on this?

It's been argued both ways here. Some say that if you use A-S, you should apply more torque, beacuse A-S will weaken the bolt's 'grip' (bad word, but I can't come up with anything better). WClark has done some reasearch on this and posted his findings on AW a while back.

On the other hand, places like TireRack specifically discourage applying of A-S to threads altogether. Not applying it to lugbolt seating surfaces is a given, of course - no one argues with that.

Personally, I apply a little bit of A-S to the tips of my lugbolts and torque them to Audi spec.


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