On the inside of the faceplate, break off any tabs that were not removed in the drilling. There is no need for any of these. Make sure you keep the tabs near the bottom edge that fasten the faceplate onto the tray. The result is this (sorry for the blurry shot).



COIN TRAY MODIFICATION

Next, you need to remove some of the front of the tray to allow the lights and Mute button to reach the holes. VERY IMPORTANT TIP: Save the piece that was cut away for use later!!! I will explain later. I used a hacksaw to make the downward cuts, then a utility knife for the cut along the lower edge. You should not cut away too much of the front, since you need the grooves on the upper edge to remount the faceplate again later. I cut away a bit more than the width of the circuit board. If I had a Dremel, this would have been a bit easier.




Some of the rear of the tray must be removed to allow the wires to run from the tray into the dash. Again, I used a drill and snips to open the top edge, but a Dremel would have made short work of this. The end result looks like this.



Okay, here is where we re-use the piece that was removed from the front of the tray. Turn it felt-side down with the raised lip edge toward the back. The plastic surface on top is a perfect for mounting the circuit board. If you did the holes correctly, the scrap piece of plastic is just the right height to raise the circuit board to the right height for the holes that you drilled in the faceplate. Remount the faceplate on the tray, and test fit the scrap piece under the circuit board to see how things line up. Use the raised lip edge along the back of the circuit board (kind of at an angle). Test to make sure that the Mute button works by pressing the button. You should feel it click. If not, simply enlarge the hole for the Mute button so it is clear of the edge of the hole.

Once you test fit and the Mute button works fine, mark where the circuit boards hole is located so you can drill for the screw to fasten the circuit board down. Drill a larger hole in the scrap piece that is under the circuit board, and mark exactly where the screw needs to be located. Use an awl or something fairly precise. If you miss drilling in the correct the location, the Mute button may not work properly, and require an even larger hole. I cannot remember the drill bit size, but use one that is smaller than the screw from the Smartcords housing. It will self-thread nicely into the hole you drill in the tray.

Next, fasten the circuit board to the tray with the scrap piece under the circuit board...you can tell that the felt bottom of the scrap does not slide on the felt of the tray. Using the screw from the Smartcord housing, screw into the hole you drilled in the tray. There is a bit of excess screw under the tray that needs to be removed. Use a hacksaw or Dremel to remove so the screw is flush with the underside of the tray.

The end result is this.



HOUSING MODIFICATION

Remove the electrical connector for the tray's light, which is on the back of the housing. Lift up on the clip, remove, and set it aside for reinstallation later. On the underside, remove the clear plastic bar that runs along the bottom of the housing (it is half covered by foil). This "carries" the light to the faceplate of the tray, but this may be discarded since you will not need the light anymore (I will explain why the clip needs to be reinstalled later).



You now need to make an opening in the back of the housing to allow the wiring to pass through. It needs to be fairly large because of the in-line fuse holder in the Smartcord's power wire. Again, using whatever tool like a Dremel, make an opening in the back along the same line as the slots you made in the back of the tray itself. I used a drill and file to make this opening...again, wish I had a Dremel. Be careful not to cut into the mechanism on the housings bottom, and not interfere with the slots where the clip for the electrical connection is mounted.



Now you are done with the modifications for the faceplate, tray, and housing. To reassemble, first run the Smartcord's two wires through the opening you cut in the back of the housing, and snap the tray back into the housing [NOTE: I did not reinstall the spring, since I did not want the tray to spring open if someone pushed the faceplate]. Close the tray, and place the Passport sticker on the faceplate. Make sure the Mute button still works. If not, realign the sticker. Reconnect the wire connector on the back for the coin tray light (again, I will explain the need for this later)

The end result of your hard work!



CUP HOLDER REMOVAL

First, you need to remove the radio, using the proper tools.

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