D7. Remove lower (round) TB cover with 2x 10mm bolt.

D8. Remove serpentine belt idler pulley with 3x 6mm allen bolts (one is accessed through the pulley) and 1x 5mm bolt through pulley.

D9. Detension the timing belt by putting a allen driver through the hole in the tensioner and slowly applying pressure to compress the piston. When you get the piston in far enough pin it back with a piece of coat hanger or other strong wire.



D10. Remove timing belt.

D11. Remove timing belt tensioner pulley.

D12. Remove timing belt idler pulley.

D13. Loosen dipstick tube with 1x 10mm bolt.

D14. Remove pulley on power steering pump. This is the top center silver pulley with 3x 6mm allen bolts.

D15. Loosen mounting bracket for power steering pump. There are 3x 6mm allen bolts - 2x on front and 1x vertically on top as shown. This is necessary to remove the water pump in the next steps.



D16. Remove water pump. 2x 10mm nut including dipstick nut already removed and 9x 10mm bolts.



D17. Clean gasket surface.

D18. Remove thermostat housing (just to left of water pump mounting. Remove thermostat and O-ring.

E - Replace timing belt and accessories

E1. Replace thermostat and O-ring.

E2. With gasket goop re-install new water pump with new gasket.

E3. Reinstall 3 screws on power steering pump mounting.

E4. Reinstall power steering pulley.

E5. Reinstall new TB tensioner pulley.

E6. Install new timing belt. This is what we came in here for! Hard to even remember after all the work so far! The Bentley calls for a procedure that involves partially removing the cam sprockets. This seemed risky and unnecessary to me so I took the extra time and hassle to fit the new timing belt without loosening the pulleys.

First, I started the belt around the bottom of the crank and around the idler pulley. Then I pulled it as tight as possible to driver side to get the correct tooth on the sprocket. I could see what tooth needed to be on but didn't have the strength to actually pull it on so I took the cam lock bar off and very, very carefully rotated the cam about 1/2 tooth to get the belt on then 1/2 tooth back to the original TDC position.

Then I kept the belt off the tensioner and pulled it tight across the top to get the proper tooth started on the passenger side cam. I could almost get the belt over the tensioner with the correct timing, but I needed just a little more help so I put my allen tool back in the tensioner to get a little more compression of the hydraulic piston. This, combined with the fact that the tensioner pulley has no lip allowed the belt to slip on.

Once the belt is on you can release the tension from the TB tensioner. The belt should be nice and tight all the way around with the cam lock bar still in place. Your timing should be fine.

[IMPORTANT NOTE: This is not the correct way to do this, it's important to release the pulleys from the cams to install the belt 100% correctly. It's not difficult, or dangerous to do this. All you need is a 2 arm puller, or the special Audi puller. Loosen the cam pulley bolts with the cam bar in place. Back the bolts out 2 turns, and then pop the pulleys off. It will pop quite dramatically, but no harm will occur. The pulley will now be free to turn on the end of the cam, and this will allow you to install the belt 100% correctly. At this point, you release the tensioner, and then you tighten the cam pulley bolts to 40 lb/ft. ]

E7. Reinstall serpentine belt idler pulley.

E8. Reinstall lower round TB cover.

E9. Reinstall harmonic balancer on crank. It only fits one way. Check to make sure that your timing mark still lines up and the cam lock bar is still in place and that the TB is nice an tight. Timing is good.

E10. To double check timing rotate the crank 2 full revolutions with a socket to ensure that everything runs smoothly and that there is no internal interference.

E11. Reinstall center TB cover, then passenger TB cover, then driver TB cover.

F - Reinstall Serpentine belt and accessories

F1. Reinstall serpentine belt tensioner with pin still in place.

F2. Reinstall intake pressure lines and connect all intake plumbing.

F3. Install new serpentine belt. Look at the pictures above if you forget the routing.

F4. Release tension from tensioner.

F5. Reinstall fan. Remember the reverse threads.

G - Reinstall lock carrier

G1. Position lock carrier back onto front of car but keep it out a couple inches.

G2. Reroute the cables and plug in the 3 connectors by power steering reservoir.

G3. Plug in headlights.

G4. Connect upper and lower radiator hoses.

G5. Install and plug in coolant temperature sensor in lower radiator hose.

G6. Push lock carrier into place and reinstall 7x torx into impact absorbers.

G7. Swing condenser back into place and fasten with 2 top bolts only.

G8. Put fan back in place and attach with 2 other bolts on top and torx on bottom.

G9. Reinstall power steering cooler line and air temperature sensor.

G10. Reconnect horns and condenser electrical connector.

G11. Reinstall 6x T-30 torx on top and sides of lock carrier.

G12. Reinstall intercooler ducts.

G13. Replace 3x radiator shrouds.

G14. Replace duct to air box.

G15. Reconnect hood release cable.

H - Reinstall bumper cover

H1. Slide bumper back onto car but leave loose.

H2. Reconnect washer line and fog lights.

H3. Guide bumper into place on the bumper guides on both sides. It should snap or lock into place.

H4. Reinstall the 6x 10mm nuts behind fender liner.

H5. Replace all fender liner hardware.

H6. Replace vertical bolts in fog light housing area.

H7. Reinstall fog light surrounds/intercooler grills.

I - Final steps

I1. Reinstall belly pan.

I2. Reinstall engine covers.

I3. Fix a 50/50 coolant solution and fill coolant. You will have to run the car and refill to get it to the correct level. You may also have to burp or bleed the system by sliding back one of the heater core hoses to release air.


So that's it. Piece of cake. Start it up and make sure it sounds normal. Drive it and make sure it drives normal. You're done for another 3-5 years.

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