If you get them all out, you will end up with a collection like this:



You can then tilt the rear of the belly pan down and away from the 2nd belly pan. Slide the thing rearward to slip it out from under the front bumper and it will drop right out.



3. Drain Oil

Now we get to the easy part just like any other car. Position your drain receptacle below the drain plug. Using a 19mm box wrench remove the drain plug. Careful - the oil may be hot!



4. Remove Filter

I used a strap wrench on the filter to loosen it a bit.



Make sure you drain receptacle is in place because after backing it out a turn or so the oil will start to drain out. I leave it like this for a few moments to let most of the oil drain out so I don't get it all the way up to my elbow when I remove the filter.



5. Replace Filter

After the obligatory wetting of the rubber gasket with some of the oil, screw the new filter on and tighten until very snug. I usually just do it as tight as I can get with my bare hands - no strap wrench at all when tightening.

6. Replace Drain Plug

Tighten this back up with your box wrench. I'm not sure what the exact torque spec is, but my my highly calibrated forearm torque wrench says not to over do it. Just a little tight is fine.

7. Replace Belly Pan

Drag this big thing back under the car with you and first position the front of it into the front bumper. Be sure that in the fender well area the belly pan goes behind the fender liner as you tilt the pan up in the rear to get it back into its original position. Replace all the fasteners that you removed. You might have to fiddle with some of the quick lock fasteners because the backing part could get out of position.

8. Fill with oil

I use a small funnel the locks in place and allows me to stand the Mobil 1 oil bottles up in it to get every drop.



You should check it while you top it up, but my experience is that 6 to 6.5 quarts is what you will need.

Replace the filler cap and you're done. Put your tools away for the next 10,000 miles.

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