11. The rear coilover is pretty much a direct replacement, no parts need to be pirated from the old shock.



12. If needed, bottom out the adjustment ring on the shock (mine came that way). Insert the shock into the housing, matching the spring to the seat.



13. The shock won't quite reach the hole, but it's easy enough to push it down with your hand to get it to line up. You may have to fiddle a bit to get the rotation of the shock hole just right. Put on the mounting bolt. Bentley says to use a new nut *and* bolt. Tighten to 52 ft lb plus 1/4 turn.



14. Having learned my lesson on the fronts, I adjusted the springs *before* putting the unit back on the car. The punch is just to keep the lower part of the shock from turning.



15. I left 1.75 inches of thread below the collars. I would probably go more like 2.25 if I were doing it again.



16. Ready to go. Watch the fender when you slide it back in. Installation is the reverse of removal. Assemble everything, but don't tighten anything yet.



17. The hardest part is getting the lower mounting hole lined up. In addition to the up-down/left-right, the shock lower can (will) rotate out of whack. A floor jack and a long punch, drift, sacrificial screwdriver, etc are helpful here. Be patient and try not to get angry.



18. Tightening sequence and torque values from Bentley:

Upper shock housing to body, tighten all four bolts to 41 ft lb.

The last two bits are to be done with the car on the ground, according to Bentley. The idea is to avoid preloading the suspension bushings. Good luck with the upper control arm bolt; I'm sure you could fit a torque wrench around the tire easily, provided you remove the fender. Instead, I just jacked up the suspension a few inches to simulate being on the ground.

Upper control arm to bearing housing. New bolt, nut, and washer. Tighten to 37 ft lb plus 1/4 turn.

Lower shock to control arm. New bolt and nut, 52 ft lb plus 1/4 turn.

19. Wheels on, car on the ground, done.

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