This shows one side of the kit (L to R): 

• Goodridge DOT brake line with red sleeve. The sleeve keep dirt and grime from getting between the braided stainless sleeve and the Teflon tube.
• StaSis floating mounting hat and endurance racing rotor. For this car we used the 14" monster! This is the same quality rotor that you would see on 24 hour endurance racing cars!
• Alcon MonoBlock six piston caliper. Hard to see but this caliper has dual built in bridges and dust seals (more on this later).
• High quality street-able pads. IMO, with such a big rotor you do not have to run a very aggressive pad. i.e. if you had OEM rotors you would have to run a very aggressive pad that operates at very elevated temps. In this case a less radical pad can be used due to the better cooling on the mango 14".
• Two high grade Allen headed bolts with "Schnor" locking washers
• Two spacers (used with the 14" kit)
• Sexy StaSis caliper bracket

This shows hub area with all factory brake hardware removed. (This car had a popular stage 3 Porsche based kit... Was removed for better performance-nuff said.)



I have found that using vacuum caps to keep the fluid from leaking out really helps to keep the mess to a minimum.



To install the big rotors you will need to remove the snow/splash shield. Due to the slotted rotors this shield has minimal functionality. The slots allow the water/snow to escape easily, not to mention that the rotor will run cooler.

If this rotor was not slotted the braking would be a bit scary whenever the rotors got wet. At least until they were wiped clean.



The rust should be removed to give a nice flat surface. Than I like to use some anti-seize paste like this excellent product. This will make future service very easy.



I like to use Loctite on all threaded fastener for 2 reasons.

1. It is a locking feature. Not important here as the bolt has a built in locking feature.
2. It seals the thread against water and corrosive brake dust. It will be easier to remove down the road.



Installing and torquing on the StaSis caliper mounting bracket. Check out my sexy torque wrench!



The beauty is in the details. This is a really nice and simple floating rotor and hat assembly. Much time and development went into making this package vibration free at ANY reasonable temp.



CU1100 (good for 2000 degrees F) anti-seize on the back of the pads. Learned this trick from some Volvo techs as a way to stop Volvo brakes from squealing! Make sure not to get this on any of the friction surfaces!

Have seen some techs use CV grease, this will work short term, but has a low temperature threshold relative to use on brakes.



Mount the rotor. I use a couple of lugs to hold it in place. Than mount the calipers using the spacers, bolts and locking washers.



Six piston money shot. These calipers have a very interesting and unique AFAIK dust shield system. There is the main piston seal that works with the hydraulic pressure to allow piston movement. There is another low tension o-ring dirt/dust scraper that keeps dirt away from the main seal. This system is superior to a conventional dust boot in a few ways:

1. Seal is located within caliper to prevent heat from pads from damaging it.
2. Dust boots have been know to become brittle and torn within a year if the pads temperature are high enough



Mounted the brake hose with the bracket this way. When I turned the wheel from lock to lock was not able to get a comfortable distance from the drive-shaft.



Found that I could loosen the 10mm headed bolt, and bend the bracket to give a better angle. Please try to turn the steering from lock to lock to ensure no binding and clearance on ALL parts. THESE ARE YOUR BRAKES!



Bleeding mono6 Alcon caliper is like any 4 or six piston caliper. There is an inner and outer bleed valve per caliper. I use a pressure bleeder, as I am not happy with the old pump method. Pumping the pedal beyond normal travel can hurt the piston seal in the master cylinder.



This car had factory S8 wheels for a stealthy look. Compared to the previous "Stage 3" brake kit that was on the car this system has MUCH better feedback for the driver. No pedal pulsation when hot. And gets the babes.

Feel free to email me with any questions as I am very happy to offer to our community this excellent product.

Jeff Moss

Attn: Brake Gurus, If I have missed anything please email me. I will edit this to include any relevant details or information missed!

Edit-
Please take note that w/o the splash shield the wheel speed sensor is close to the rotor. For almost all sane use this does not seem to be a problem. If the car is a serious track car 4-6 inches of Goodridge TEXTALU or FLAMEGUARD should be used to protect from heat.
Please let me know at the time of purchase and I can arrange to have it included.