HVAC Blows very hot air on side vents
 

I have a strange problem with my car. Occasionally when the A/C is on, it will decide to blow very hot air from the front side vents and the rear vents. The front center continues to operate properly. Even if you change the temperature, it will continue to do this until the next time you start the car. There appears to be no pattern as to why this happens. It could be one in a month or three times in a week.

Has anyone had this problem and know what the repair is?

Thanks

It is a known problem and Audi has issued a TSB. Send me a PM with your e-mail address and reference that you want the TSB for the differing temps from the ineterior and exterior vents and I will send you the TSB.

Kevingary
 

I have this same issue! If there is a TSB, the dealer will do it even if I am out of warranty right?

Or do I need to pay labor charges, either way I want to get it done so what is the TSB #. Thank you!

IB

Only "recall" level problems generally get fixed out of warranty.
As such, you would need to pay for both parts and labor on a TSB.

It's in my sig, but here's a direct link: http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/3/...67/2013883.pdf

Any idea what the out of warranty cost for this is? I am having the same problem just the center vents are hot the rest are cold. I like to have an idea what to expect to keep my dealer honest.

NoVA - your problem may not be related to the TSB... Try this, click on the "setup" button next to the temperature controls - it should pop up a menu on the MMI screen. Next select (using only the temp. control knob, as the MMI knob will not control this) the choice for center vent (or some derivative) and set to colder. Please let us know if this works. From my understanding the TSB symptoms are hot air from the outer most vents despite temperature settings. GL

does any body know the BOSCH part number for the valve unit?? I think it may be cheaper through bosch and maybe they have an updated unit.

I will try that when I leave the office today, I notice in the winter the rear side vents blow cold air.

I tried doing what you suggested, I could control which vents the air would come from I didn't see how to make them colder.
I have an 05 if that makes a difference.

NoVa - I don't know if 2005 is any different from the 2006 - I tried it also to make sure the instructions were somewhat accurate. When hitting "setup" (the button is located to the top left of the passenger temperature mini display)- the following options pop up on the MMI screen: Recirculate | Temperature Synchronize (to keep the temperature adjustment the same between passenger and driver so that when the driver adjusts temperature to 68 the passenger temp also moves to 68) and Center Vent. Again, using the temperature knob you can select the center vent option. I will try to post some pictures shortly.

Pic's for HVAC Center Vent customization
 

NoVa - please see the pictures attached...

Thanks! I wasn't pushing the setup button after getting on the distrubution menu. I was set pretty warm. I will give that a try and see what happens. Thanks for your help.

My '05 A6 also has this weird hot-air-blowing problem. It always happens in the hot summer days when the AC is on. When it happens, the centre vent will blow out cold air (as it should be), but both the driver-side and passenger-side vents will blow out HOT (read "hot", not just warm) air, no matter how low I adjust the temp to. During the whole time, the air distribution setting is in "Auto".

The only trouble is that it is intermittent, and so far has only happened 2-3 times every summer. The dealership had a look at this problem, but as always they couldn't reproduce it at the shop. If they can't reproduce a problem, they won't fix anything.

I guess I just have to live with it, together with other comes-and-goes electrical gremlins. Oh well, Audi is never known to be strong in the electrical department.

part 4f1 959 617 b will fix it....

In one of the other threads on this issue, I think someone mentioned a price of around $600 to fix it out of warranty.

I had the same problem and got it fixed under warranty, but had to give the dealer the TSB and dealer had to keep the car for a few days to reproduce the symptom.

When it happens you can usually reset it by turning the temp control to "Lo" then to "High" both for a short time (maybe 30 secs to a minute) and then to somewhere in the mid-range ~70.

I have had this happen a few times in my '05. It hasn't been warm enough here in Maine to use the A/C much this year. It may just be coincidence, but it seems to happen when the driver and passenger temp settings are different, and not synchronized. Anyone else notice any difference if the sync is on or off?

Happened to me while sync was on.

x2.

happened to me both on and off

it seems very simple if you read the TSB I dont know why there is so much speculation...

The Audi dealerships won't fix problems they can't replicate, even if you shoved the TSB into their faces. This hot-air problem is intermittent on my car, and I can read the TSB a hundred times which still doesn't help me recreate the problem.

So it is extremely helpful for everyone to work together to nail down the exact mechanism of causing this problem such that it is repeatable at the dealerships.

I had a similar issue with a TSB and a dealer refusing to perform the work because the could not recreate the problem. I told them that I would pay to have the TSB performed. They then told me that Audi would not let them charge customers for repair work during the warranty period. I told them that I thought that Audi would not be very happy when I called and explained my predicament. The dealer then decided to perform the TSB for free.

Hey guys, I struck a really good relationship with my service adviser, and I just print out TSB's that I need performed and he does them...no questions asked. I just got my car back and I had the A/C TSB performed with the replacement of the valves, etc.

Edward, every dealer has some "cool" advisers that are willing to help you out, you just have to find them...if one guy doesn't help you, just try another one in the same dealer...thats just my 2 cents.

I have the same problem with my 05 A6 Quattro. This drives me crazy and wondered if it was an issue of freon or needing a cooling system service. I like many, can't replicate the problem at the dealer and will be stuck paying for it I'm sure. Thanks for the TSB and I am going back to Infinities from now on.

It definitely helps to build a relationship with a good adviser. If you have the option in your area, you can always try a different dealer.

You can also call AoA and complain to them. Not sure about Audi, but on my last car I had very good luck with calling Acura NA and getting them to "nudge" the dealer into covering things out of warranty.

Who is AoA??

By the way I searched for the cost of the part and it's around $350. You can go here - http://www.worldimpex.com/parts/genu...ve_909809.html and here - http://www.ecstuning.com/Search_VW/4F1959617B/ BUT I don't know how happy the dealer would be if you walked in with your own part.

Audi of America. From their website:

If you currently own an Audi and have questions or concerns about your ownership experience, and would like to speak with a Customer CARE Advocate call 1-800-822-2834 (AUDI), Monday through Friday, 8 am to 8 pm, Eastern Time.

Thanks everyone for the help. I had the TSB done on my car (about $700 out of warranty). Problem seems to be fixed. For those that have the problem, until it is fixed, if you turn the temperature all the way to HI for 5 seconds or so, then all the way to LO for 5 seconds or so, and then back to your desired temperature, that seems to solve the problem temporarily. I have about 5 hours on the car since the TSB. I will let you know if I hit a problem. Once again, thanks for the help especially to the individual that gave me the TSB.

I am glad I could help.

Last week, the "hot air blowing" problem finally manifested itself once again, and, needless to say, I drove the car straight to the nearest Audi dealer, without touching a single control button until the service guys acknowledged it's a real problem.

The ambient temp sensor and the valve were replaced under factory warranty which had only 2 days left.

Thanks everyone for your helps.

I have this problem, but only with of the outside passenger vent. I've had it to the dealer twice while under warranty. It's only a periodic problem but the dealer has never really fixed it. I'm taking it back again tomorrow. I'm now out of warranty, but this is a problem that occurred during the warranty and has never been fixed. We'll see how it goes.

Hey guys I just went to a friends yard to grab some parts for my buddy's s4 rebuild and they had a smashed up 2005 a6 3.2 he was parting out so I decided to grab the heater valve everyones been having trouble with out of it for one of you guys on here.

Part Number : 4f1959617b
MSRP: $377.00
GenuineVWAUDI parts.com's Price: $271.44

My price: 170 shipped to the continental US...

I though I could help out the audiworld.com community just a bit by saving someone over 100 dollars on this pain in the a$$ part. (Since audi world has helped me so much)

Thanks guys Ill throw this in the classifieds too!

^^^^^ How do you know if that heater valve is the updated version or the original version ? All 2005 A6's are installed with the original version. Only the updated version will fix this "hot air" problem.

Not all of the original versions are problematic. This one was working fine in the vehicle prior to it being taken out.

Dealer charged me $52 to test drive my car for 9 miles and tell me the A/C is working fine. I'm not sure what he would have done if the vent blew hot air for a few minutes in the middle of his 9 mile ride. Would that have helped him figure out the source of the problem, or merely confirmed that I'm not insane?

He suggested that I drive to the dealership the next time the vent blows hot air. I pointed out that it is an intermittent problem that can last as little as 30 seconds or as long as 3 minutes, but it does not last much longer than that. Hence, I don't like my chances of showing him the problem, and I don't understand how that would help the diagnosis anyway.

If he told me he needed to experience the problem to diagnose and fix it, I would not have left my car with him in the first place. I only get the problem once a week or so.

i dont think its so much the fact that he has to experience it to know your not insane. He just has to experience it to be able to fix it and acknowledge it as a real problem.

Regarding the part#4f1 959 617 b
 

How difficult it is to replace this part?
This is for the TSB when A/C is on, randomly hot air blows blows
from the outer and rear vents.
Once I shut the car off like 30-45 minutes and restart the car, solves this problem. This hot air happens once in a while.
My car is a 2005 Audi A6 with 41K miles and is out of warranty.
I don't think the dealer will fix it for free??
If anyone had this fix done out of warranty, want to know if that was possible as there is no recall, i think??
If I had to fix on my own, how diffciult is this? I am handy for the most part.
any guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks
Barry

Easy Fix for A/C Blowing Hot Air Through Outer Vents
 

Like many others, the air conditioning on my 2006 Audi A6 (3.2 V6) was intermittently blowing hot air from the outside vents. By now, the cause of this has been well documented as being a pump valve unit that sits between the rear of the engine and the firewall. According to Audi TSB #2013883-5, changing to an updated unit, with a B added to the original part number (4F1959617[B]) is the recommended fix. They also recommend a set of mounting parts (4F1998617). These parts alone run over $300.
Since mine worked for five years before failing I wondered if it couldn’t be repaired, but I searched all over the internet and couldn’t find anyone who even tried. So I took a shot at it, and YES IT CAN! I’ve been testing the repair for several days now and I’m convinced the problem’s gone. Here’s the best part - it takes less time and effort to repair the existing valve than to replace it. Removing one plug and six T-10 Torx screws is all it takes to disassemble the unit to the point that it can be repaired. The repair consists of cleaning some caked–on substance from the two solenoid plungers and housings. This takes well under an hour and you’ll hardly get your hands dirty. No messing with anti-freeze, hoses, or the like.

Here’s what to do…

Caution: Do this only when the engine is cold so there's no pressure in the cooling system.

Fig 1: Remove the plastic cover between the back of the engine and the firewall (not shown) by lifting the spline from the front edge and gently pulling the cover towards you. With that removed you’ll be able to see the location of the pump valve unit (yellow arrow). One plug and those two little cans are all that have to be removed.
http://home.ptd.net/~rstoer/images/1location.jpg


Fig 2: First remove the rear plug* by placing a small screwdriver where indicated by the green arrow. With the front of the blade under the plastic edge, gently press down. When you hear it click the plug will slide right off. The red arrows on my photo don’t show up too well but you can see the three #10 Torx screws across the front edge. There’s three more across the back. Remove the six screws.

* Update: Someone contacted me to say that he successfully used this method, except he left the coil assembly in the car because he had trouble removing the plug. It's true, the items that require cleaning can be accessed by just removing the six Torx screws. The coil assembly (the yellow and brown item in fig's 4 & 7) can be left in the car, tethered by the wires. Just make sure those two bronze washers (one inside each coil) are accounted for before allowing it to dangle about in the car.http://home.ptd.net/~rstoer/images/2removal.jpg


Fig 3: With the plug and screws removed, lift the two cans and the socket for the plug you just removed as one unit. Wiggle gently if needed, but it should lift off pretty easily. Be careful as one or both of the plungers may come up with the housing, making the plunger springs vulnerable to falling off. The photo shows one plunger & spring still in place.
http://home.ptd.net/~rstoer/images/3valvebase.jpg


Fig 4: This shows all the parts you’ve disassembled. (I took this photo after cleaning everything).
http://home.ptd.net/~rstoer/images/4parts.jpg


Fig 5: This photo shows the solenoid plungers, springs and washers. Note the caked-on substance on the un-cleaned plunger. I found areas of this on both plungers and the brass sleeves the plungers fit in. It’s what causes the sticking, and a good cleaning of these surfaces is all that’s needed to effect a cure. Just make sure you get it all off. I used Meguiar’s Mirror Glaze fine-Cut Cleaner because that’s what I had. Anything similar would work.
http://home.ptd.net/~rstoer/images/5plungers.jpg


Fig 6: On the housing I used a jeweler's screwdriver to gently scrape off most of the sludge, and the Fine-Cut Cleaner on a Q-Tip to get the rest.
http://home.ptd.net/~rstoer/images/6housing.jpg


Fig 7: Here’s everything cleaned up and ready to be reinstalled. When you reach this point, place the coil assembly right-side up (mine's shown upside-down), and insert a washer into each hole. Then place a solenoid housing over each coil. Finally, slip a spring onto each plunger. The nine parts should now comprise three sub-assemblies.
http://home.ptd.net/~rstoer/images/4parts.jpg


Fig 8: I found no crud on my valve base but check it and clean as necessary. Insert the plunger/spring assemblies into the valve base (only one is shown in place here). Press each one down and see that it pushes all the way in and springs back freely. Then fit the coil assembly over the plungers, making sure it seats properly on the base. Reinstall the six Torx screws and tighten. Snap the plug back into place on the coil assembly and you're ready to test.
http://home.ptd.net/~rstoer/images/8valvebase.jpg

Assuming all is well, reinstall the plastic cover and spline. That’s it!
Hopefully, this will save someone some money. These cars are expensive enough to maintain (nice to drive though).