Here's the Work Order PrintOut Data:
LF Camber: -1°08'
LF Toe: 0°07'
RF Camber: -1°03'
RF Toe: 0°06'
Front Total Toe: 0°14'
Steer Ahead: 0°00'
LF Camber: -1°02'
LF Toe: 0°07'
RF Camber: -0°48'
RF Toe: 0°08'
Front Total Toe: 0°14'
Steer Ahead: 0°00'


Well it's confirmed that putting on the Better Tire of the 2 would not cause any harm. As for the Suspension, I wasn't looking into changing anything, but wanted it back to it's Original Ride which was Straight and Tight. I never wanted the Body Shop to Tackle the Strut Tower Bracket, but I understand why they did it. It was the only way to move the Car around from Station to Station sort of speak. So this is the First time the Suspension was Dropped, but on the Ride home it was an Unpleasant Experience so that when I found out that the Outer and Inner Tie Rod was Tweaked and I had both Replaced. This was the Second Time the Suspension was Dropped. Now it had to be Aligned by Audi and on the Trip to Michigan I was Wondering to the Right and pulling it back on line to the Left. Driving 3 Hrs with 1 Hand at the 5 O'Clock postion was a Chore. My goal is to PinPoint the Cause. Thanks

Ok, I now understand that 1BK is the Proper Program for Aligning my A8L. Thanks

Alignment numbers are fine except I do not understand differences in Chamber angles before and after. Chamber can’t be adjusted on A8 so it has to be constant. It might be that guys machine is not working properly. Wondering usually comes from opened (negative) toe angle.

From what I understand talking with Suspension Pros, it's the Caster that can't be adjusted on the A8. I could be wrong or maybe I misunderstood, but I've had quite a Few indepth discussions on the Topic. It has always been Tight and Held its Line without Drift, so I'm looking at the RF adjustment that was made. Those numbers were fine to begin with and why not just Straighten the Steering Wheel and Balance the Rear since its number were in the Red Zone? Thanks

How did your post help in any way? Stop posting in here as no one here in the A8 section cares or wants to read anything you say.

In order to straighten the steering wheel they had to readjust both front wheels. You are right about chaster. It can't be adjusted either.

If I remember well one of attaching points for upper link was ripped of. Or it was some other car? What was done with it? They should measure chaster too. It can't be adjusted but it can bi off.

help
 

have not seen one from you that actually helps, telling somebody to live with an oil leak or if is too expensive let it alone is not exactly helping.
my post is very specific towards somebody, don't let it bother you, as I stated in his other thread the rack has internal damage, if he does not want to have it look at is his problem and.
DO YOU HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS????
tell him to hold the steering wheel and live with it.
if you don't care don't read it.

It's going back to Audi for a Re-Check and they will take a look at all things considered. It's a Solid Ride and I know the Highways can be such a Uneven Place to Test Drive, but I don't think that I'm overly picky on this one. Will let you know the Outcome. Thanks and much appreciation. Laters,

If you have a local alignment shop, then maybe take it there to have the alignment verified (my local Just Tires is great about doing this for me). Just put the car on the rack and have them give you a reading and printout. If I was in your shoes, I'd be concerned with the camber being off by .5* _after_ the alignment. While mismatched camber shouldn't cause excessive wandering, it's still odd.

Also, to check if you have any play in the steering, you could try pulling the car into the alignment rig straight, take a reading, then turn the wheels right and back to straight ahead, take another reading and repeat by turning left.

Lastly, try remounting the wheels. Could be something as simple as a wheel having been mounted slightly off. Alignment is a game of inches, if not mm (depending on how competitive you are), so everything should be inspected. Check all the suspension bolts too and make sure they were torqued to spec.

l8r)

Some good points to consider! I would think that since the Body Shop was Audi Prefered that as many times they've handled an Audi that they would know Torque Specs, but then again they did let me Drive away without Repairing the Tie Rod. I'll have Audi check Every Single Bolt involved and will have them bring that Camber in a little tighter. Also, the Steering Wheel isn't Perfectly Straight and for the Money I paid them, I'm sure a ReDo shouldn't be an issue. Will update after Service is done or should I say Re-Done. Thanks and laters,