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You went from CCB to a standard system? :confused:
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It's not $700 all around, more like $1400 for steel and $15-20k for ceramics lol! These are S8s we are talking about not the TDI that has the smallest brakes.

4.2 TDI has optional carbon brakes ;)

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Yup... I'm just wondering if he did the "unthinkable downgrade". :p
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If he did I pray he has his old ones since I'll buy them!

If anybody wants to buy my old rotors they're available for 10K. Lol

They were standard steel rotors and if my car used to come with ceramic rotors then somebody before me remove them and put these on. Either way not necessary because my car stops instantaneously and rides quiet. Also my fuel economy is retarded

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Dave has CCB, and cannot just put standard rotors and pads in. Different calipers, etc.
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New pads are in, and just in time it seems. No videos, but here are some pictures:

With the CCR brakes, the calipers must be removed to replace the pads. But it was still very easy.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.aud...1ea2d9ab47.jpg



This might not have been the best way to accomplish the task, but I didn't have the proper sized (open end) wrench that was thin enough to hold the post from spinning. So pliers were called into action.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.aud...d378bcab29.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.aud...0faadd57c9.jpg


This Harbor Freight tool has been in the case for several years and finally got some use. I normally leave the caliper mounted and insert a pry bar in-between the old pad and rotor...pry a little and the piston compresses into the housing. I wasn't going to try this with the CCR, as I have heard they are prone to chipping.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.aud...f0d8f4ca6f.jpg



Notice any difference in the pad thickness? LOL
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.aud...b9d5aa79b9.jpg



I started on the passenger side and the pads still had a lot of material left. So much so, I thought I might be wasting my time (and money). However, once I got to the driver's side things were different. Check out the wear sensor. It appears to have started its journey to needing a replacement.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.aud...810da20cd1.jpg



All done!
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.aud...020dd2168a.jpg

I should also mentioned that I followed the VCDS procedure. It was straightforward and I didn't have any problems changing the pads (it took just over 1.5 hours from start to finish). However, when I went for a test drive I had the "ACC and brake guard not available" error message. Apparently I did NOT follow the VCDS sequence properly. At the end, the emergency brake needs to be cycled, I initially skipped this step and went straight to the test drive. I couldn't seem the clear the error but finally got around it. I pretended to start the whole procedure over (but without actually touching the pads and/or removing the wheels). Just sat in the car with my laptop. Initiate/start lining replacement, then finish lining replacement, and then cycle the emergency brake.

Confirmed no errors with second test drive.

Does the brake pressure feel better? Maybe. Is it as linear/progressive as my wife's BMW...hell no. In the Audi, there's 1-2 inches of free movement then they start to bite. Once you get into the "initial bite" area it takes just about 1/4 inch more to throw you into the windshield. I'll see how it goes after a few hundred miles.

One last question, how do you "bed" rear brake pads? I'm familiar with the process for regular pads on the front, but question the effectiveness of using the same procedure on the rear pads.

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Dave, your braking response issue smacks of a deeper problem. It just shouldn't behave like that. If it were a conventional American car, I'd be wondering about the master cylinder, for instance.
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