Always love these oil extractor debates. But folks always seems to skip over the, "well duh" that sort of answers the question. One reply already caught it correctly. That is, unless perhaps folks are trying to sell the wifey or themselves on another nifty tool.

So the practical answer on a 4.0T is...the filter is on the bottom. So, the belly pan is coming off anyway... And then the drain plug is right there in your face. No way around that belly pan pull for a 4.0T filter change. And I will skip the only known laughable exception where someone took a D3 to a cheap oil change place and they literally demo sawed a hole. Needless to say, when he found it they coughed up a new belly pan among other things. Occasionally the retort is then, "I might strip the drain plug." If so, I would suggest letting a pro do it. FWIW, on my 2015 S8 based on the crush ring and other subtle details, I can pretty much tell dealer is doing it from underneath. I have AudiCare, so dealer does it each service interval, but I tend to do one in between. By contrast and with same dealer, the 2013 Q5 2.0T filter is up at the top. I could tell based on the undisturbed factory paint on the oil pan at the drain plug the dealer had never touched it, yet had done oil changes. So, my conclusion is consonant with my "well duh"--my dealer is doing it one way or the other based on where the filter is.

FWIW, practical reason to pull belly pan--besides you have to for filter on 4.0Ts under discussion--is honestly the single best diagnostic tool I know of to keep an Audi healthy is to personally pull the belly pan and inspect it with every oil change. That pan typically catches almost every meaningful fluid drip up front other than the tranny or way out near the wheels. So, over the years and Audis, I have caught small coolant leaks many a time (dry white/pinkish dried drips or streaks, power steering (pre electric rack), etc. And then I fix it at leisure, or better yet find it under warranty and get a new part on Audi. Got a new D3 W12 complete radiator that way, with tiny leak at bottom seam only obvious with belly cover off, plus wet belly cover edge. Several hoses on same car. Also being underneath for the belly pan and filter, I always inspect CV joint boots. Caught one just like that on D3 at about 100K miles. Result was boot kit change, rather than eventually a full axle if crap gets into broken boot over time--which it will. And so on. Have not had an over the road breakdown in an Audi in many years now, and some trips out to 1500 miles, and with miles out to 150K+.

Further, for oil spec, don't just buy any 5W40. Needs to be VW 502 spec compliant. Or 504 if you want the newer spec, in which case you want to confirm your location pumps only ultra low sulphur gas for various oil technical reasons. Also, if you have a 4.0T and the turbo's blow in any possible warranty scenario, at $7 grand for new ones assume they may literally send the oil to a lab to confirm what it is if the service records don't tie off. There have been a few first person posts to that effect IIRC. The dealer oil now has a uV dye in it (the Castrol Professional stuff) as I understand it, but only 502 or 504 in your choice of brand is required to stay within oil change spec requirements. If oil name says something like "European Formula on the label, it probably is, and then fine print on bottle should confirm. For starters, Mobil 1 0W40 (but NOT other viscosities) meets the 502 spec, as do a few Castrol "European Formula" versions.

Finally, almost all belly pan screws on my 2015 S8 are actually Torx. A lot also can use a Phillips given trick way they did the screw heads, but some are Torx only. I have a set of Torx drivers, so easy. For those who have owed prior Audis like D3 A8 or C5 A6 or some such, relevant part of D4 belly pan is actually pretty easy. It has about a zillion screws now, but the portion you remove is now a smaller more manageable panel. And, it does not fasten into the area right in front of the front wheel fender wells in the old convoluted way that D3/C5/C4 all did.

I've used the same oil drain plug and crush ring for the past 4 oil changes with zero problems🤷*♂️. And to clarify, 13 has phillips fasteners.

Also, +1 on oil spec VW 502 00

Got a quote of $225 from Audi dealer and $135 from high end independent shop. Choose the latter
and it took an hour while I waited including car wash. Seems like a reasonable labor charge, especially in the winter in Chicago.

Just because you can, doesn't mean you should. I would highly recommend not using the same crush washer ever. The whole point of it is defeated once it's used once. FWIW, I'll be doing oil changes via my EXtoil 15-Liter Oil Extractor with Gauge on my TDI.

The technique I have used on my cars :

Every 5,000 miles, use oil extractor from dipstick tube to change oil - but don't bother changing filter - makes this a 15 mins job for me.
Every other 5,000 miles, go to dealer to drain and change filter - this becomes a 2 hr affair for me including wait time, etc. and they do full inspection for leaks, etc etc.

Hope that makes sense.

Thanks for excellent video. I have 2015 A8L 3.0 tdi and will probably take to Audi Tysons.