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Originally Posted by Moviela
(Post 24475223)
We need to bring you into the new millennium. The Greens chased all the auto makers waving their finger about all the hazardous used oil dripping out of oil pans. In response the industry started doing business differently. The maker of the drain pan machines a class 2A thread. Back in the day they used class 2B. The 2A fit is very tight, and intended for a single use. When the pan arrives at the engine assembly area the plug with a microencapsulated sealant is already installed and it is super tight. It is a one time use bolt. VW intends for it never to be removed. Extraction is the published method for changing oil.
Some people (even dealer techs) cannot understand that extraction is the same as using gravity to change oil. They take the plug out. When they do that the class 2A fit is lost. When you purchase a new plug, it will not be a 2A thread. Now you are strictly relying on the sealing ring to hold back the tide. The lack of ability of a sealing ring to prevent drips is what brought out the Green shaking fingers in the first place. The new plug from Audi is a one time use device. Once installed the sealant is released. When you remove it, there is no sealant, and the class 2A thread has partially deformed the threads on the screw. The deformation becomes less and less every time, and that leads to a new oil pan. I am not selling plugs here, just reporting on the engineering. I am sure a lot of people have done their oil change the 1973 way, and being lucky their bung hole does not leak. There are also a lot of people that are having free oil pans paid for by Audi because they realize that dealer mechanics have removed the first plug and destroyed the fit. I would suggest if the dealer wants to sell you a new oil pan, you contact Audi and let them know the cat is out of the bag concerning the "cross threaded oil plug" and ask them to pony up. Classes 1A, 2A, 3A apply to external threads; Classes 1B, 2B, 3B apply to internal threads. Class 1 threads are loosely fitting threads intended for ease of assembly or use in a dirty environment. Class 2 threads are the most common. They are designed to maximize strength considering typical machine shop capability and machine practice. Class 3 threads are used for closer tolerances. Class 2 threads are common, so why would this drain plug be more susceptible to damage than all the other class 2 bolts/fasteners? |
Thank you for the info guys.
I had the local shop I used,reuse the drain plug. But the car never leaked oil.. it was never on the ground, or that engine shield.. because we removed that shield every time to get to the drain oil plug. I'm just going to get the extractor for the future use. I think im getting screwed by the dealership, but I'll just deal with it.. because I'd rather pay the $375 than argue with them and perhaps lose out on the free stage 2 oil fix. |
I'm thinking about buying this one.
Since they did Stage 1 and Stage 2 on my car are 79K and 82K...the oil is all new. But I'm thinking about changing it at 85K anyway just to keep my regular interval, and make it easier to remember. That way I don't have to get under the car anymore. |
Originally Posted by jfo
(Post 24475295)
Class 2 threads are common, so why would this drain plug be more susceptible to damage than all the other class 2 bolts/fasteners?
It's moot to me, I use extraction simply because it's easier. But the whole "drain plug is a one time use device" doesn't make sense, at least not the way it's described. |
These guys have very good deals on the Pela extraction pumps:
http://www.jerrybleach.com/pelapumps.html Ports, don't overlook the value of periodically getting under the car to check for damage, other things that are going wrong, etc... |
Originally Posted by gunsmoker
(Post 24475272)
Moviela, your engineering explanation doesn't shell any light on why a car manufacturer would design a hole and a plug for it that are not meant to be used, given the extra cost and reliability side if it.
Here is a question. Why is there a dipstick tube? |
Originally Posted by Moviela
(Post 24475780)
Here is a question. Why is there a dipstick tube?
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Originally Posted by uberwgn
(Post 24475357)
These guys have very good deals on the Pela extraction pumps:
http://www.jerrybleach.com/pelapumps.html Ports, don't overlook the value of periodically getting under the car to check for damage, other things that are going wrong, etc... I'm looking into the extractors you linked as well. thank you. |
Ports, the Pela is a popular product for oil extraction.
You can also check at your local marine supply store as they pretty much all offer similar devices but I still think the Pela is a superior design. |
That's why I bought a dipstick, so I can have a more accurate measurement of the oil level than I can get with the MMI.
Despite what the owner's manual says, after refilling my crankcase with 5 quarts of oil, both the MMI and the dipstick showed that I needed another 1/4 of a quart. I'd like to point out that when I get my oil changed at my dealership, the oil comes up higher on the dipstick than I allow it to get when I change the oil myself. . . . |
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