Yet Another Suspension Air Compressor Issue. 00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 009
So driving home to day my suspension light came on. Just the yellow light is on and will not shut off. I ran a Vag Com Scan and got this. It is the only code related to the Level controls. On the MMI screen Lift and Dynamic are grayed out. Automatic and Comfort still are illuminated but when you toggle between them nothing happens. To my eyes the car is in Comfort or possibly life mode. Definitely not Dynamic. Complete scan will be shown below, The compressor is not running. I cannot hear it when I start the car. The car has been sitting for over 2 hours and as not sank. It appears to my eyes to be level. From what I have read and searched on the forum, yes I used Google before posting, it sounds like I might have a blown fuse and relay. Hopefully the compressor is not blown. I assume that my struts are good because the car is not sinking. If there was a leak the car would lower itself over time correct? Is the fact I cannot hear the motor running at all a good or a bad sign? I have an appointment to get it looked at on Wed but the shop is roughly 50 miles from me. Is it save to drive the car or am I risking damaging the compressor if it is not already toast. I am wondering is the current fault 1 Fault Found: 00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 009 - Open or Short to Ground, preventing the compressor from being activated and turned on making it safe to drive. Thanks in advance. Address 34: Level Control Labels: 4E0-910-553.clb Part No SW: 4E0 910 553 K HW: 4E0 907 553 H Component: LUFTFDR.-CDC H07 4590 Coding: 0015510 Shop #: WSC 02313 785 00200 VCID: 2B000E54FF05EC6F1B7-807E 1 Fault Found: 00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 009 - Open or Short to Ground Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 11101001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 96 Mileage: 199985 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2018.12.16 Chassis Type: 4E (4L0) Scan: 01 02 03 05 06 07 08 09 0E 0F 15 16 17 19 1E 34 36 37 38 42 46 47 4F 52 53 55 56 61 62 65 67 6C 72 76 77 00-Steering Angle Sensor -- Status: OK 0000 01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000 02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000 03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000 05-Acc/Start Auth. -- Status: Malfunction 0010 06-Seat Mem. Pass -- Status: OK 0000 07-Control Head -- Status: OK 0000 08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000 09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000 0E-Media Player 1 -- Status: OK 0000 0F-Digital Radio -- Status: OK 0000 15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000 16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000 17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000 19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000 1E-Media Player 2 -- Status: OK 0000 34-Level Control -- Status: Malfunction 0010 36-Seat Mem. Drvr -- Status: OK 0000 37-Navigation -- Status: OK 0000 38-Roof Electronics -- Status: Malfunction 0010 42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000 46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000 47-Sound System -- Status: OK 0000 4F-Centr. Electr. II -- Status: OK 0000 52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000 53-Parking Brake -- Status: OK 0000 55-Headlight Range -- Status: OK 0000 56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000 61-Battery Regul. -- Status: OK 0000 62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000 65-Tire Pressure -- Status: OK 0000 67-Voice Control -- Status: OK 0000 6C-Back-up Cam. -- Status: OK 0000 72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000 76-Park Assist -- Status: OK 0000 77-Telephone -- Status: OK 0000 |
Fuse or relay is a good start, and when posting a scan, feel free to delete the non-applicable modules to save everyone having to hunt through it.
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Originally Posted by Jack88
(Post 25249448)
Fuse or relay is a good start, and when posting a scan, feel free to delete the non-applicable modules to save everyone having to hunt through it.
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Louis |
Originally Posted by rellascout
(Post 25249454)
So if the struts are holding air is it safe to drive to a shop 50 miles away? I have the car in jack mode and measured the height of the wheel wells and will recheck tomorrow. If it hasn’t dropped am I ok to drive it? I don’t want to burn out the compressor if it’s not already toast but would prefer not to have to tow it. |
Thanks guys. The car is holding level. Zero sinking overnight. I think I will be safe to drive it. Will be back to update the post.
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I drove mine 300 miles from a Western Chicago suburb to Detroit on pothole laden I-94 in the winter with the front right strut air bellow blown and bottomed out. Awful ride, warnings like crazy (Including headlight adjustment out of range) with no permanent damage. Had to get home.
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Originally Posted by Mister Bally
(Post 25250397)
I drove mine 300 miles from a Western Chicago suburb to Detroit on pothole laden I-94 in the winter with the front right strut air bellow blown and bottomed out. Awful ride, warnings like crazy (Including headlight adjustment out of range) with no permanent damage. Had to get home.
Got it into a shop today and it was the fuse. I got it replaced and it is working fine. Hopefully that was it but will keep an eye on it. It would not surprise me if the relay goes and the fuse pops again. Pump was good to go and no codes showing it is being overworked or over heated at any point. So at least that is good at this point. |
I'm surprised the fuse blew on its own. Usually it blows because one of the motor magnets becomes unglued from the motor case and causes a drag and excessive current draw.
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Originally Posted by rellascout
(Post 25250767)
Mine turned on 100 miles into a 300 mile return trip home. I kept stopping to check the level.
Got it into a shop today and it was the fuse. I got it replaced and it is working fine. Hopefully that was it but will keep an eye on it. It would not surprise me if the relay goes and the fuse pops again. Pump was good to go and no codes showing it is being overworked or over heated at any point. So at least that is good at this point.
Originally Posted by Mister Bally
(Post 25250808)
I'm surprised the fuse blew on its own. Usually it blows because one of the motor magnets becomes unglued from the motor case and causes a drag and excessive current draw.
When relays go, they may essentially arc weld closed in which case it can be pretty problematic. Compressor wants to run, no way to get at fuse and relay without tools and a bunch of dash disassembly, etc. Has happened to members occasionally over the years, and sometimes a compressor fried IIRC. |
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