UrS4boy

I've been developing this conversion in my head for a number of years because I always thought that, eventually, our OEM coils would no longer be made and I wanted a back-up plan for my car. In the last four or five months, I noticed that I was getting some missing/bucking under WOT, and high boost, at high speed. I figured coil (or POS) but I didn't want to spend the money on replacing old (but perhaps robust) technology when newer technology is out there.

I know all about the 1.8t coil pack recall on some of the Bremi-made coil packs but I think that VW/Audi is through all that now. For whatever reason (excess supply, the need to do some good PR), these coil packs are now very reasonably priced. Since I had the need and the price was right (about $200 - $250 for the parts versus the OEM equivalent of about $925 for five coils and two OEM POS units), I decided to make the conversion. As you may have seen from my posts, it seems to be working absolutely fine - so far. (YMMV). Just like new OEM parts should. Hey, they are OEM - just from a newer technology!!

If you are interested in making this conversion, you need the parts listed below. They are mostly dealer parts. I got mine through Kris at VM Autohaus (604-298-9637) who said he would be interested in putting "kits" together with all the parts (except items 7 and 8 that you need to scrounge). For Canadians, using Kris wouldn't be a bad idea. For those in the States, there is still a bit of a gap between the US dollar and Canadian dollars that should still make it an okay deal. However, I know ECS tuning has the coil packs for about the equivalent price (in absolute dollars)that I bought mine for.

Anyway, here is the shopping list:

1. 5 units of 06B 905 115L late model 1.8t coil packs (which are POS, coil and plug connectors all in one) should be about $25 each. Note the "L" is very important. DO NOT ACCEPT ANYTHING ELSE - unless they are known to be better.

2. 5 units of 4B0 973 724 empty four wire connectors (to mate to the 115Ls) (about $10 each) (Seems expensive but they are worth it)

3. 10 pieces of 000 979 133 A - two female spade connector pig-tails (NOTE: If I
had this to do over again, I would search out the equivalent empty pins and crimp/solder continous pieces of wire rather than spicing these into the system.) (About $4 each piece). These pins go into the rear of the 4B0 973 724 four pin connectors.

4. 25 pieces of 357 972 741 A - wire sealing grommets (red) for the 4B0 973 724
connectors and 000 979 133 A wires (about $0.30 each). They seal the wires into the 4B0 973 724 connectors. Install BEFORE you connect the wires to anything else.

5. 5 pieces 6X0 971 921 A - two-part plastic boots for the 4B0 973 724 connectors. (about $3 each). At first I thought they were cheesy but they are actually quite slick. They are designed to retain 1/4" corrugated split wire loom which helps to corral those wires.

6. 3 pieces of 000 979 134 - two male spade connector pig-tails (again, I would search out a source of empty male pins and forget slicing these in)

7. Two, four-pin male spade connectors to fit into the four pin female spade connectors that carry the signal from the ECU (and a ground) and normally fit into the four pin end of the POS units (N122 and N127). You can search for somehting better but I found that there is a four pin, left tail light, connector PN 191 972 704 from a the mid-90's Jetta IIIs (might also be in some Audis because the plug has both VW and OOOO molded into it). These connectors are female "pin" power plugs but they have the exactly correct pin spacing for the the OEM POS input connectors. They need to be modified (a lot). But this is pretty easy.

I bought two of these taillight plugs with the four wires and connectors (each). By
removing the female pins (from the connector side with two bent paper clips to push the retaining pins in), you can salvage eight pins for use in the other connector projects (if you want to save a few $). Once the female pins are out,
you need to trim off 4 mm on the nose of the connector and then remove
all the protruding bits. I used an X-acto saw (that I have had for 40
years when I used to make models as a kid). Don't trim much more than 4
mm or when you load the male pins, 000 979 134 (come 2 to wire, you need
5 so three wires), they will push right through (don't ask how I know
this). I think it works out that if you cut right through the center of each O in the OOOO symbol, the amount removed is just right. You load the 000 979 134 pins from the back.

Once the pins are in, you can see how the newly re-gendered
connector fits into the POS connector. Spacing is correct but there is
a lot of exposed, non-waterprood, non-connected, plastic to deal with. I am planning on zap strap(s) and some silicone to solve this problem.

8. 2, three pin (male) power connectors to receive switched power going to the
primary side of the coils. These connectors are on the connector rack on the fire wall and are the two beside the 02 connector. You need to replace them because when you remove the OEM coil pack, you disconnect and remove these connectors. I cruised a wrecking yard and found that the solution is the end of a dead three wire VW O2 sensor (e.g. 90 to 92 Jetta II). You need two. The male pin connector even has the grove to slip into the firewall bracket and fits the power connector perfectly. I crimped on purple power wires that will be connected to Pin No. 1 on each of the five coil pack connectors.

9. Labling tape (1/2" masking tape) so you can keep all the wires organized as to where they are going or coming from.

10. Colour-coded wire, butt connectors and good crimpers, and/or soldering iron, solder and heat shrink tubing, 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" plastic wire loom, zap straps, etc.

11. Instructions and/or the S4 and 1.8t wiring diagrams (I will post the instructions
shortly)

The adventure begins. I expect that you will post improvements/alternatives to my solutions for items 7 and 8.

Dave F.

alpinab7

i'll be doing it next week, thanks for all the work/info

popdemonic

anyway,really good job!!!
thank for your idea guys..

UrS4boy

Yes but I haven't had time yet to do the write up. I will. (It will take time to get the parts)

germantoy

have you run the coil cover yet?

UrS4boy

keeping mine intact because they way I did the conversion, I can convert back (plug and play) to OEM in under 15 minutes. 5 if I hurry.

I will leave the cover alternatives, and connector improvements, to those who follow this path.

Dave F.

popdemonic

thanks in advance bros.....

The Librarian

If you want to use empty pins then you might try the link below:

I think (buyer beware) the correct pins are the VWP 192175 female pins. You need 20 (4 x 5). Don't but the cable seals from them. Get those from a VW parts source, e.g. VM Autohaus.

The equivalent male pins seem to be VWP 192156. You need 6 (five for the ECU to POS signals and one for the POS ground).

Add it to your list instead of the two pin per pigtail wires.

YMMV

Dave F.<ul><li><a href="http://www.eagleday.com/ampconnectors.html">http://www.eagleday.com/ampconnectors.html</a</li></ul>

spiralsmurf

is there a reason not to use existing pin wires?

The Librarian

I did it my way so IF it didn't work, I could always go back without any problems. You can do to it any way you want. Just don't whine about it later if you need to go back or something. ;&gt

Dave F.