Finally, a description of the "neat" way to do the fog light mod...
Ok, I'm not much of an artist, but here goes. The upper picture is a "schematic" view of the $10 fuse tap. Note how the blade on the left is wired to both left sockets, while the blade on the right is only wired to one of the right sockets. The other right socket has a big red wire attached to it.
The fuse tap manufacturer intends for you to put the fuse from the slot you're using into the (on my picture) "bottom" pair of sockets, and the fuse for your add-in device in the "top" pair. I use it a little differently, and flip one upside down to get it to behave the way I want.
The lower picture is a "schematic" view of the "cleaner" photograph. Since slot 27 is empty when we start, we don't need to populate the bottom fuse at all. (Those with something in slot 27, or using a different slot could of course place the existing fuse in that slot.) Place a live 10A(*) fuse in the lower slot, to get power to the red wire from our first fuse tap.
For slot 36 we want to plug something into the "load" side, and make sure there's no connection to the "feed" side. Wouldn't it be great if we had something like the fuse tap - just in reverse? Hmmmm
Flip over a fuse tap, populate only the "top" slot (if it were right-side up) with another 10A(*) fuse and presto!(*) Since we end up with two fuses in series, I dropped down a step on each one's rating from the factory's 15A to a 10A. Electrically it doesn't make any sense, but I felt better somehow. I believe my fuse taps were only rated for 10A anyway.
Using a 10a instead of a 15a fuse will just ensure that it blows quicker, that's all.
But, proceed at your own caution.... (gotta disclaim, it ya know how it goes)





