Auto tranny screwed..thinkin of converting to 5 spd..any ideas?

 

Re: I've got pictures of the 'Auto -2- Manual' swap! It was fun! Have tools? )

 

mike is it a very hard a tedious job? and expensive? do u have a working 5spd? email me

 

The hardest part is getting all the parts from a "reputable" salvage yard. Then getting them in a condition which only requires a minor cleanup or rebuild(seals-gaskets)!

<img src="http://home.ec.rr.com/miktip/5speedside1.jpg" border="0">

Preferbly you want to get them from a donor Audi which was involved in a rear end collision, and not a front. Plus you want to "view" the parts before you pay!

The gearbox I recieved, needed a major rebuild because it had been underwater! Of course the salvage yard "had no idea" of this! Cost me over $600 in special tools and replacement parts.
Only reason it didnt cost me more, was I did the work myself!

I scowered the internet looking for a salvage yard willing to give me the "package deal"!
I was quoted prices ranging from $900 to $3000.
So ya got to "shop around".

Basically, your needing all the parts to install the manual 5-speed into a once automatic Audi 90.

&lt;Gearbox with mounts&gt; Both mounts were broken on the one I recieved. You need all the bolts too!
All except for 5 of the automatics bolts will fit.
The gearbox mounts are designed to "snap" in a collision because of the PROCON system. New mounts can only be had from an Audi Dealer &amp; $60 per side. You need 2.

&lt;Flywheel &amp; clutch pressure plate &amp; disk&gt; I had to get new flywheel bolts(Audi only), clutch disk($100) &amp; pressure plate. You can get a clutch "kit" which includes new SACH disk, pressureplate &amp; throw-out bearing for $300.
The flywheel I cleaned, removed a few pounds from and had re-balanced($200) Helps the V6 spool up much quicker! ;O)

&lt;Clutch master cylinder &amp; slave&gt;($140) Basically I had to buy new ones. The salvage yard ones were in poor shape. Make sure you get the hardline which plumbs the master to the slave. Make sure its not severly bent, leaking or has stripped end fittings! Luckily mine was not abused too bad by the yard. You'll also need the rubber firewall seal around the clutch master cylinder. Supposedly Audi no longer sells these!

&lt;Entire pedal assembly&gt; Because the your automatic's ECU is where the clutch pedal goes, and your pedal setup is missing the pin needed to mount the clutch pedal &amp; return spring. To R&amp;R the pedal assembly, the entire steering colum needs to come out first!

<img src="http://194.87.53.210/imaudivw/VAG029E8.gif" border="0">

&lt;Left &amp; Right Drive axles&gt; As the ones on the automatic are shorter. I got the axles complete with CV joints, because there are 2 type's of inner CV's and mount flanges found on 5-speeds.
If your flanges are "external-type" then your CV's on your automatic will fit the external flanges on the 5-speed, and they will fit the 5-speed axles. I replaced all 4 CV boots while the axles were out. $130 for 4-CV boot kits. Better to do now, while axles are out! Plus the boot were trashed from the yard! Also the drivers side axle I got from the yard was bent, since that was the side the donor was hit on. So I had to get another axle, again. Didnt find this out until after everything was installed. It vibrated while driving.

&lt;Entire shifter mechanism&gt; You'll need the center console too! Make sure you get all the nuts &amp; bolts associated with the shifter mechanism. As well as the lower plate which is glued to the car body. item #1 Anything missing and your dead in the water! While its apart, now the time to modify the shifter for a shorter throw! ;o)

<img src="http://194.87.53.210/imaudivw/VAG029E4.gif" border="0">

To remove the automatic, you'll need to remove both left &amp; right exhaust down pipes. As well as the lower subframe, and disconnect both steering tie rod arms from the steering actuator(they get in the way) Remove the automatics shift mechanism.

Upon removal of old automatic, you'll need to remove the pilot shaft bushing in the end of the crankshaft. You cant mount the flywheel until you do so. The manual gearbox pilot bearing is internal on the flywheel. The pilot bearing for the automatic is in the crankshaft! Mine did not want to come out by normal means! I broke 2 large pullers, specially designed to pull such pilot bearings! I finally had to surgically remove the bushing by cutting it out with a high-speed rotary bit and Dremel like tool. Took 2.5 hours to cut the bushing out!

Then you have to remove the automatics wiring harness. Or tuck it up out of the way behind the exhaust heat shield. ;o)

Also remove the transmission cooler lines &amp; ECU.

<img src="http://home.ec.rr.com/miktip/crankseal1.jpg" border="0">

Then while your there you might as well replace the rear crankshaft oilseal($40)! Better to do with the gearbox out, then "have to" do and pull the gearbox again! ;o)

While the gearbox is out, install the clutch master cylinder and the hydraulic line. Its easier with the gearbox out! Plus the entire pedal assembly. Since the master cylinder attaches to the pedal assembly.

Then install flywheel, new flywheel bolts, torque to spec, IAW Bentley Manual. Install clutch disk &amp; pressure plate. You'll need a clutch alignment tool.($25)

Install gearbox! You need some sort of lift to lift the gearbox into place. I have a special tool for just the job! ($200)

Install clutch slave cylinder, bleed system.

Reinstall steering system.

Install axles.

Install anything thats left.

Now you'll have to jumper wire the relay which controls the starter lockout once controlled by the automatic's ECU.

Then wire up the back-up lights!

The exhaust system hangers will need modifying.

Basically alot of work. Only way to save $$$ is do it yourself. You'll hear mechanics say "it cant be done". Yes it can. I've done it, and its
a "bolt-in"! Imagine what a dealership would charge for such a job? Ouch!

Another option for you is have you automatic rebuilt by German Transaxle of America. This way all you have to do is R&amp;R the transmission.

 

In short your probably better off selling your car and buying something with a clutch.

 

nope wont do that...i love my car.

 

Miktip, diag on the shift linkage part - please, and thanks

 

Re: diag on the shift linkage part - its there.

 

I would think it's attached to the tranny. In the morning it's diffcult to get into first gear or reverse, really need to push hard. I read that the problem could be the shift linkage which can be adjusted. Need to know where is it. For your info, the clutch and the transmission mounting was changed about a year ago( one of the mounting is bad).

Could this be also due to clutch fluid in the master/slave cylinder being dirty? Could you point the part no in the diag.

Thanks again for kind assistance.

 

<center><img src="http://catalog.exist.ru/pic/parts/VAG10723.gif"></center><p>are made by loosening bolt 22 & or 23.

23 bolts the end to the gearbox,

22 bolts the linkage to the bottom of the shifter.

<img src="http://catalog.exist.ru/pic/parts/VAG10727.gif" border="0">

The clutch slave cylinder(35), has the bleeder screw(36).

It located on the left side of the gearbox, top.