Standard disclaimer: do this at your own risk... you break something, its your fault...not mine (that statement is funny for me on this job)

This was done on my 01 A4. There are two CV Boot replacement write-ups in the tech section... But I didn't like em, so here goes

You can buy an entire new axle from raxles for like $170... or from germanautoparts.com for $99. This is for the $25 CV boot kit write up. Cheaper... but MUCH messier

You probably jacked up your car to rotate a wheel, replace CA's, or replace TRE's (like me) and noticed this:

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v604/Lefko/Audi/DSCN5878.jpg" border="0">

1. Remove center cap and loosen collar bolt. This was a 17mm allen bolt on my car. (Got a set of 4 large allen sockets from sears for $40). After you get it started while the car is on the ground, jack it up and secure the car, remove wheel and then remove the collar bolt.

2. I then found it easiest to disconnect the upper control arms (this was easy for me as I live in a warm climate so the pinch bolt comes out easily). You may need to gently tap the control arms from the bottom to remove them.

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v604/Lefko/Audi/DSCN5886.jpg" border="0">

3. Disconnect the tie rod to allow yourself ample room to work. This is not a necessary step...But disconnecting it takes a few minutes and makes the rest of the work easier in my opinion. If you can't get the tie rod out, screw the top bolt back in a few turns and tap it with a hammer. It should come out easy that way.

4. Swing the axle to the rear of the car
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v604/Lefko/Audi/DSCN5893.jpg" border="0">

5. Remove the large and small clips. I used a screwdriver and hammer. Put the screwdriver on the clamp groove, tap lightly, the prongs should come undone and you can remove the clips.

6. Grab your old collar bolt you removed earlier and start to thread it back into the joint. Keep cranking it in and you should hear a "pop" as the joint pops off the axle.

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v604/Lefko/Audi/DSCN5898.jpg" border="0">

7. Wiggle the joint and boot off the axle.

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v604/Lefko/Audi/DSCN5885.jpg" border="0">

8. Getting messy yet?

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v604/Lefko/Audi/DSCN5888.jpg" border="0">

9. You can use degreaser or whatever other solvent to clean out the old grease from the joint. I found it just as simple to use A LOT of paper towels. I didn't want to have to worry about making sure it was totally dry before I started to re-install. But if you use a solvent used compressed air or something to make sure its dry and clean before you start to re-pack it.

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v604/Lefko/Audi/DSCN5887.jpg" border="0">

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v604/Lefko/Audi/DSCN5890.jpg" border="0">

10. Pack the joint with new grease

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v604/Lefko/Audi/DSCN5892.jpg" border="0">

11. Remove old C clip from axle, replace with new

12. Put boot on axle, put new washers over axle.

13. Now its time to get the joint seated back on the axle. Remember the collar bolt we used to remove the joint? We're going to use it to install it as well.

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v604/Lefko/Audi/DSCN5898.jpg" border="0">

Screw the collar bolt into the joint a little. Line up the joint with the axle... Hold the boot/axle/joint steady with one hand and hit the bolt with a hammer. Do NOT just hit the joint with a hammer... Hit the bolt! TRUST ME! You'll feel it start to go. Reach into the boot and make sure the joint had been driven back far enough where the washers do not move.

14. Time to wiggle again... wiggle the large clamp over the boot, and make sure the boot is properly around the joint. Clamp it down with that special clamp tool we've all purchased for use with our vac line clamps.

15. Work the joint back into the hub, line up the splines and push it in. If you have problems here try and get it started... Get that old collar bolt again and put it through the hub and start threading it into the joint. This should start to pull the joint into the hub. Unscrew this collar bolt. Squirt any extra grease into the hub and screw in the new collar bolt. Tighten it up, reattach the tie rod and upper control arms.

16. Reattach the wheel, lower the car, torque the collar bolt up to proper specs (85 ft/lbs + 180 degree turn)

17. Lift car back up, remove wheel, tighten small clamp (this will have hopefully allowed all of the air out of the boot). Put wheel back on, lower car, torque wheel up... Recheck collar bolt and enjoy!

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v604/Lefko/Audi/DSCN5897.jpg" border="0">

 

and, to let the air out of the joint after your torque the axle bolt and before you tighten the clamps. That's a fairly important step.

 

;-)

Feel free to edit my write-up as you see fit re: using the collar bolt. Back when Dave and I did mine, we obviously didn't even think about using the collar bolt as a tool.

Andy

 

to get the joint out of the upright

 

ya... updated now

 

then again, prob due to the same reason the pinch bolt comes out easy... warm climate is nice! :-D

 

After threading the collar bolt back into the joint to pop it off the axle, I was unsuccessful at "wiggling" it the rest of the way (I DID get plenty of grease on my forearms trying). I backed the collar bolt out, put a deep socket into the joint who's OD was less than the OD of the bolt (spacer), put the bolt back in and tightened. It popped the joint right off the axle with a lot less effort.