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I open the rear hatch to full height, then in closes about 1 foot, jacking any poor soul who dips their head in prior to the adjustment.
This didn’t work. Thing still opens all the way and then drops down.
There is no resetting procedure.Try to scan your car for errors but it seems to me more mechanical problem. It could be something wrong with rear lid lock or Bowden cable or power latching motor. All 3 are connected and located under the rear lid trim. It may also be a damaged of one tailgate actuator, which the controller reads as an obstacle in closing and reverses the procedure.
I had similar problems in my previous Q7 and it was the faulty rear lock.
Hey guys
The video above has nothing to do with the problem
I had (well still have) exact same problem with my tailgate it started with a grinding noise then the tailgate start dropping down (after being fully opened) about 4-8 inches hitting you in the head the car was at the dealer for about 3 to 4 weeks they couldn’t figure out what’s the problem in the first couple of weeks they did replace those gas struts (those are really expensive) did not help at all after one more week past then they figured it out it was a hinge on the driver side I was happy they fix the problem for about 6-8 months it was good
However after about four months later the problem came back so since last December my tailgate dropping down again I have a bunch of videos to show to my dealer (there will be absolutely no errors in the car system) I figured that out it most happening when car it’s parked down or uphill
I do have an appointment in the first week of July I think it will be the passenger hinge now
The problem is when they replacing the hinge they are scratching the paint on the hinge and the bolts with the socket or wrench and those hinges are painted
So what they told me after figuring out is when one hinge is weak the other one has not enough power to hold the tailgate up so it’s dropping down and stops at the peak where it can
Last edited by xxEdwinxx; Jun 21, 2022 at 09:10 PM.
Hey guys
The video above has nothing to do with the problem
I had (well still have) exact same problem with my tailgate it started with a grinding noise then the tailgate start dropping down (after being fully opened) about 4-8 inches hitting you in the head the car was at the dealer for about 3 to 4 weeks they couldn’t figure out what’s the problem in the first couple of weeks they did replace those gas struts (those are really expensive) did not help at all after one more week past then they figured it out it was a hinge on the driver side I was happy they fix the problem for about 6-8 months it was good
However after about four months later the problem came back so since last December my tailgate dropping down again I have a bunch of videos to show to my dealer (there will be absolutely no errors in the car system) I figured that out it most happening when car it’s parked down or uphill
I do have an appointment in the first week of July I think it will be the passenger hinge now
The problem is when they replacing the hinge they are scratching the paint on the hinge and the bolts with the socket or wrench and those hinges are painted
So what they told me after figuring out is when one hinge is weak the other one has not enough power to hold the tailgate up so it’s dropping down and stops at the peak where it can
I wonder what could go wrong in such a hinge. This is a very simple structure requiring only lubrication. Mechanically, such a hinge could only break, but it would be visible.
If it seized, it was enough to apply some lubricating and penetrating agent.
Ok, upon further inspection, one of my struts has buckled exposing the broken springs within.
it was only after I removed my Maxton spoiler I realized the hatch wasn’t closing straight.
Does anyone know where the struts unplug? I purchased a $450 replacement, but I can’t figure out how to get the old one unplugged. (Hoping I don’t have to drop the head liner).
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Problem with rear hatch.
