In their ongoing quest to shave costs on our vehicles, Audi elected to forego inclusion of the scissor jack on the B10/Mk III SQ5. They apparently feel the use of run-flat tires eliminates the need for a jack (not to mention a spare tire).
At my home shop I have a hydraulic jack, compressor, etc. and can readily tackle tire rotations, repairs, etc. However, on the road, away from home, I want to feel comfortable knowing I can repair a tire should the need arise, and not simply hope the can of sealant and little air compressor provided by Audi will see me safely to my destination.

Does anyone have first-hand experience with using any of the aftermarket scissor jacks? OR, should I just open the wallet and spring for the much more costly Audi OEM jack? Admittedly, this is a bit of an "insurance" thing - paying for something but hoping to never use it.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts/experience.

 

Given the lack of a spare tyre, I now carry a spare tyre (on a skinny wheel) and a pretty standard scissor jack bought at a decent motor spares shop. I have used this jack "in anger" when one of my tyres collected a metal spike way up a French mountain road. I had no problem using it (making sure that you "lock out" the suspension on the MMI before jacking). The jacking points are logical and specified anyway in the manual.

As an aside, if you are going down the spare wheel route, check carefully the exact size of the wheel you are buying as it will need to have enough clearance to fit around the large front brake caliper on an SQ5 if you have to fit it on the front. Mine is 155/80 R19 and fits OK (usual wheel is 255/40 R21). I was expecting an array of warning lights to come driving with the spare fitted, but I covered about 100 miles to get to a tyre repair place with no problem.,

 

ETKA doesn't seem to show a jack for the GU Q5, even in the European catalog.

A random Audi OEM jack may not work. There are dozens of different OEM jacksthey usually differ in the shape of the jackpoint mating surface and/or to avoid interfering with body panels. If you happen to find one that matches the shape, great; but could be hard.

Just make sure the scissor jack is rated for the load and sits into the jackpoint without sliding. And you probably know not to never get under a car with a scissor jack.

 

"155/80 R19" is not a wheel size, but a tire size. Wheel size is something like (diameter)x(width) et(offset).
The PPE/PPC vehicles are designed from the ground up with not even support for any manner of spare tire, so likewise it has no need for any support for tools to swap wheels. Strangely, there's still a lug wrench in parts catalog. Dumb decision, but the decision they made.
From the owner's manual, "Commercially available tools, such as a vehicle jack and a wheel wrench, are needed to change the tires. Have these ready when starting the procedure."
(also from the manual, don't forget about the air suspension setting in the menu if you have air suspension)

The PPC is generally a carry over of a lot of the MLB evo physicals, so I wouldn't be surprised that the MLB evo Q5 (B9 Q5) jack works fine for it.
Unlike the PPC A5, which stepped up the standard bodies to the allroad tire diameter, the PPC Q5 retains the same 29.0-29.2" tire diameter range of the B8 and B9 Q5.
155/75 R20 would be a closer match to that than 155/80 R19, but you have to go with what you can find. And revs/mile can vary with tire brand, and will vary with simple pressure changes.

The B8 spare was 195/75 R18 106P on 18x6.0 et36 (Q5) or et32 (SQ5)
The B9 spare was 195/75 R18 106P on 18x6.0 et24 (all)
Both of those are slightly larger than the diameter of the stock tires. I don't know if that's intended, or just a consequence of the product options from the collapsible spare vendor.

The B9 jack was 80A011031B with crank handle 4H0011221.
If you go with a whatever jack, you want it to have the same general head design. The lift is not by the pinch weld; the jack head simply slots around the pinch weld to counter slip and secure the positioning. You'll notice the head is slightly higher on the "inside", and that's where the actual lift contact is.