2 years (20K)? These are Stasis Street Sports and this is not the first time I've had this problem.

They got loose 1 week after the first installation and oval'ed out the hole in the suspension strut mount. The installer improvised and it seemed ok. Year later, they're making noise again, so while I'm gettint my brakes installed, I have the installer (different from the first) replace the strut mount with extras I bought from Audi.

Now it's another year later (2 since first install) and they're clunking again. I'm positive if I remove them, the hole will be oval'ed out again. I don't think this is acceptable for something that's only 2 years old and installed by professionals. Is mine defective?

The first time, I talked to Ryan @Stasis and he thought we forgot to install the washer. It was installed though.

Am I expecting too much? Should a suspension on sh1tty NJ roads be removed and parts replaced every year as general maintenence??

I appreciate any feedback.

 

Sometimes, depending on how they were installed, you can loosen the nut while adjusting them. It happened to me and I had to have them reinstalled. Don't know if this makes any sense...

 

try impact wrench+loctite?

 

Was the top nut a fresh one or the old one reused? That's all I can think of.

 

It is a nylock, like factory. So if the washer is in place (in the proper order) and you tighten the nut, all should be well.

I've had about 15 suspensions on my car since 2001, I've never had that nut come loose.

It's even easier with the street sport kit cause you got the allen key in the shaft to hold it in place when tightening.

You need to keep the shaft from spinning to tighten the nut and keep the assembly "tight". I use the allen key in the shaft with a socket and a wrench (or if you have the cool ratchet with a hole in it, or the factory tool), or in the Track Sport's, you have to get creative and hold the shaft with pliers without scoring it (do-able, just takes patience). After you get it nice and tight, then you grab the impact gun and put a good "rat ta ta ta ta ta tat" on it to make sure it's good and tight.

Since the locknut is already tight against the thrust washer, the impact gun hit doesn't spin the shaft all that much really, so it's not an issue with heat buildup/stress on the seal.

First off, I'd make sure the washer is good and happy in teh right place, I'd put on new nylock nuts, tighten by hand without spinning shaft (good and tight), then whack it with the impact gun for a second or two (no more necessary, just a good squeeze).

Lastly, make sure there is no spring tension when tightening things. You need to get the nut good and seated tight against the thrust washer without the spring messing things up.

Should be tip top for years.

 

as long as it's not all jacked up, the original one should be fine...

 

wait, what part is "ovaling"?

 

Create a tool like this.
You'll then get to torque it to spec.
The nut is nylon, so shouldn't back out. Make sure to replace it and tighten properly.

<img src="http://www.purems.com/images/fullsize/mkiv-4.jpg">

 

...the picture is right.

So you have the damper with shaft extended and spring perch all the way loose.

YOu slide on the bump stop, then the spring and the upper spring plate.

Then you put on the cool thrust washer which sits on the shaft where the threads end. Then the black upper rubber mount thing, then the nut.

So you're jamming the black mount (#2) against the thrust washer (#2) via the nut and the shaft threads.

My best guess is that the installers wussed out on the torque on the nut.

To answer your question directly, no, there is no washer between the nut and the black mount (#2). There is a steel insert in the black mount that acts as the "washer" essentially.

 

...double check the thread pitch before you go and buy, but if I'm right, you can order from:

McMaster 90576A141