getting 5W-40 oil
I want to get some since apparently my dealer (Stevens Creek/Andersen-Behel) plays a little fast and lose with the oil specs.
I run Mobil 1 because of the ones I listed it is the easiest to get. 10-30 and 5-30 are great for turbos, 5-40 and 20-50 work well for NA engines in my experience.
Well we're on the topic, I would run one change of dino oil before switching to synthetic. Also, use the dealer oil filters while under warranty. After that you can mail order OEM Mahle or Mann filters. Mobil 1 and Amsoil filters are also OK, but not Fram, etc.
You do not have to switch to synthetic, but if you do please follow the guidelines I set out or at least do some research. Not all synthetics are better for your engine than good dino oil.
Todd W
I had the same sort of problem in locating 5W-40. I contacted Valvoline headquarters in Kentucky and asked them to put me in touch with my regional sales rep. After a bit of phone tag, I was able to order two cases of oil directly from him. Of course, YMMV, but it worked for me.
BTW, I have no relationship with Valvoline other than as a customer.<ul><li><a href="http://www.valvoline.com">http://www.valvoline.com</a</li></ul>
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Secondly, 5-40 oil will break down faster then 10-30 oil, for example because it has more additives to maintain that vast temperature range. I don't know if they still do but general aviation aircraft always used straight grade oil, like SAE 30, just for this reason - less likelyhood of a breakdown. I live in the SF Bay Area where the climate is prime for 10-30 oil. Even if you drive up in the mountains where there's snow or the desert you'll be fine with this grade. 5-40 oil is really only good in severe climatic areas like Minnesota where it can be 30 below in winter and frickin 95 degrees in summer. Again, by Audi saying to use 5-40 oil it covers their ***. And it covers their *** even further by saying you should use synth in case the turbos heat up the oil a lot and you never change the oil.
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Prolong is actually a really good product that had been developed over a decade and isn't a bunch of bs like Slick 50, for example. However, it will probably not help your car at worst and help it almost unnoticeably at best. The stuff does what the Prolong marketeers say it does. If you drain your oil that was treated with Prolong you could still drive your car. However, you could save your money and just drive your car without draining the oil and you'll be better off. The stuff adheres to metal - that's why you can drain your oil and still run the engine for some time. However, your vital engine parts are continuously splashed with oil so that you don't need an adhering agent in them. Prolong has never proved that if you put their product in your engine your engine will actually last longer and wear less. That's because they can't. They can only show what happends if you drain your oil.
Don't ever use Slick 50. It's just plain oil with teflon. The teflon particles are too big and heavy to do any good on metal to metal contacting parts and eventually end up at the bottom of your oil pan.




